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South Nuttall
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Beckoning, The T 
Converging Paths T 
Finger Crack in White Corner T 
Judgement Night S 
Killing Fields S 
Luv Nuthing T 
M&M T 
Munson Burner T 
New Traditionalists, The T 
Temporary Insanity T 

Luv Nuthing 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brian McCray
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 12, 2011

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on a short wide corner up to a spider-web filled alcove. This first section has some loose rock. From the alcove, go out a couple little roofs, into the imposing overhanging splitter. Overhanging hands, thin hands, and ringlocks gradually get more vertical, but the climbing stays pretty hard and the crack gets thinner. Be aware that toproping this route can be a major cluster, due to its steep and right-leaning nature. This is arguably the best pure jamming route of any grade at the NRG.

Location 

Pretty far down the line of the South Nuttall cliffline. Walk past the concentrated area ofTemporary Insanity, Fingercrack in White Corner, etc., go under the Waterpipe Cave, and Luv Nothing will be at the top of a small little hill just right of a big corner system. About three minutes past this is a 5.2 climb-out; one of South Nuttall's rare access points.

Protection 

wide pieces and more slings than you think for the bottom. For the splitter, 2 or 3 of everything from a gold down to purple camalot, plus a couple thinner pieces for the top. Bolted anchors.


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