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Love Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Dave in the crux (which is no gimme at the grade)


A variation/link-up that I like better than the two routes it encounters.

Clip the first couple bolts on Drilling for Dollars 5.8 and rather than breaking left on that route climb straight up the corner (trad gear) to the anchor of To Love Honor and Belay. Some interesting balance moves on the upper section.

This line can be top roped after climbing To Love Honor and Belay.


Start on Drilling for Dollars. Finish on the To Love Honor and Belay anchor.


normal rack to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Love Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: this shows where the Love Nest is... the corner ab...
this shows where the Love Nest is... the corner ab...

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 25, 2009

aka "Drilling for Love"
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 19, 2010

Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
May 24, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The 5.9 crux is probably the fact that the placements aren't that good, and you'll hit ledges if you fall. I couldn't tell you whether or not it's physically 5.9, but leading it definitely felt in the 5.9 zone. (if any of that makes any sense)
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
May 1, 2016

Just one Cam (yellow Metolius Mastercam) and a finger/thin hands-sized nut were all I needed to make it feel PG. Some might want a fist-sized Cam or bigger as well, but I didn't use it. There are points where you would definitely hit the ledge if you fell no matter how you protected it, but I found the moves to be secure when that was the case. Be very comfortable with 5.9 before leading this. It's a fun little linkup that feels like a very natural line up the wall.

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