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Love Muffin 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: Nick Sullens on Oct 13, 2011

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Good edges lead up to a blank headwall. Clipping the fourth bolt is a bit strenuous. The crux is the blankness guarding the chains, from a poor crimp and a pretty good left hand either dyno or levitate. Very fun route, the anchor is in need of a retrobolt, or maybe just new hangers/ chains.


The second route from the far right of the cliff, to the right of PMS and the left of Beds, or two bolts lines to the right of Fashion Victim.


4 bolts to a terrible 2 bolt anchor, Leeper hangers connected together with some homemade looking cable.

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By Steve Weyand
From: Redding
May 29, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

On May 9, 2014 I replaced the rusty 1st bolt and hanger with a new Powers 3.5" bolt and Fixe hanger. Bolts 2, 3, & 4 are still in good shape and the hangers and nuts have been straitened and tightened. I also replaced the 2 bolt anchor and manky cable with 2 new bolts and hangers and added quick links and leaver 'biners for the lower off.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Nov 2, 2014

BLOC 7B, almost 7b+ for the onsight placing draws!
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Mar 29, 2016

new glueins + new lower offs added.

Bolts have been respaced for the onsight. Be solid on the 3rd clip and dont bring a muppet belayer!

The bolts and anchors are solid 6" meaty things so feel free to log some air time...