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Love Minus Zero 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Roger Briggs & Bill Briggs, 1973
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 1, 2004

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Climbers on Love Minus Zero, Eldorado Canyon, phot...

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  • Description 

    Love Minus Zero: Two stars if done by itself, subtract a star for the deteriorating rock above the roof, add a star if done as a part of "Roving for Love."

    P1: Begin a little ways up and left on the Upper Ramp from the black slot/crack that marks the start of upper T2. Pull up and right at an obvious weakness to gain a crack and pro. Probably 20' of unprotected 5.8 here. Climb upwards for another 20' to gain the obvious finger crack and follow this up and leftwards to a ledge. Belay. The pitch is approximately 100' long.

    P2: Traditionally you would traverse off the left margin of the ledge to gain a very shallow left-facing corner with poor gear. A much nicer option is to continue up and left off the ledge in the obvious black hand crack. This leads directly up to the roof. Step left to a flake to establish yourself below the roof and get a no-hands rest. Currently there is a fixed hex and tat under the roof. This can be backed up with a solid red Alien or 0.5 Camalot. Pull the roof. This is very strenuous and requires bringing your feet way up and liebacking in a near-horizontal position before rocking up to a good crack. Felt like one of the most powerful 11c's I've done in Eldo. Once past the roof you traverse left about 10' and then head up chossy rock to a belay niche. Continue up on easy rock or traverse slightly right to a slung horn and make two raps back to the ramp (recommended - bring webbing).

    Roving for Love was a great linkup: Roll Over Rover to Rover to Love Minus Zero. Thanks to Steve Levin.



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    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jan 28, 2015

    The black hand crack mentioned is on T2 and it is gained by going right not left off the ledge. I think the shallow corner is a great feature of the route and should not be missed however.

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