REI Community
Lotta Balls Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Run T 
Black Magic T 
Borderline T 
Bruja's Brew T 
Cougar Boy T 
Dodgeball T 
Freaker's Ball T 
Kick in the Balls T 
Lost Marbles T 
Lotta Balls T 
Lotta Brews T 
Power to Waste T 
Voodoo Doll T 

Lotta Brews 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 420', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: No one special
Page Views: 738
Submitted By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Interesting linkup of the quality first pitch of Lotta Balls with the upper pitches of Bruja's Brew, hence the name. The grade on this makes it the physically easiest line up the wall that I know of, but the character of the route makes it a stouter challenge than many trade routes of the same grade in the area-certainly miles trickier than Algae On Parade, for instance. Follow the first pitch of Lotta Balls past the anchor of that route, climbing right past obvious large flakes to horizontals that eat TCUs and then a short seam that takes a variety of good pro to the P1 anchor on Bruja's. Follow P2+3 of Bruja's to the top-more demanding climbing and trickier pro, as well as a large traverse that can cause massive drag if not efficiently engineered, make the upper 2/3 more serious and challenging than might be apparent until in the thick of things. A heads-up if not truly dangerous route-5.9 climbers on Bruja's have walked up these pitches for years, but don't expect walk-in-the-park plug-and-chug Birdland action here, boys and girls.


This route is located where it is found.


I always rock double cams from tips to #3 with a full set of wires and a #4 boat anchor in Red Rock. This will serve well on the route, with plenty of gear left for improvising belays where convenient.

Comments on Lotta Brews Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cunning Linguist
Mar 18, 2013

A fun route for someone looking for a little variety on a much-traveled cliff. Pitch 2 is a real gem in my book. A better link-up than the one described here might be to link Lotta Brews' first pitches into P3 of Black Magic, but this would bump up the grade a bit, and avoid the thought-provoking roof-to-traverse section on P3 of Bruja's, which kept the excitment pretty high for the grade.

Thanks to my thankless partner who endured yet another run up a moderate to scope out what needed to be replaced on this cliff many moons ago. I told you I'd get around to posting it up-look, it only took me a year and a half!
By Ben Townsend
Nov 12, 2014

Way fun. Small wires are nice on the second pitch. I suppose one could find a place for a #4 somewhere on this route, but you'd really have to look.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About