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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, free solo-ed and retro bolted
Page Views: 4,730
Submitted By: Jeremy Smith on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (196)
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John Jennings

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  • Description 

    This is the farthest right of the routes. Scramble up the hillside from the creek about 50 feet to the base of the crag. The route, named after an enchanted forest in "The Lord of the Rings", follows five bolts up a great slab, with perfect, 2 pad deep incuts up its length. This is a great beginner lead, with the bolts just far apart enough to give one a little thrill, yet easy enough to clip from stable stances. It is one of the better 5.8s I've climbed when looked at in this manner. The route tops out on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.


    5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Lothlorien Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another Beta photo showing the bolts.
    BETA PHOTO: Another Beta photo showing the bolts.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lothlorien slab- the first bolt is visible.
    BETA PHOTO: Lothlorien slab- the first bolt is visible.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly cruising up the Lothlorien slab.
    Nickie Kelly cruising up the Lothlorien slab.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up Lothlorien.
    Heading up Lothlorien.

    Comments on Lothlorien Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 3, 2013
    By Jesse El
    Sep 10, 2017

    Bolt #3 was loose, able to spin!
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 20, 2001

    Two new bolts at the top of the slab replace the tree anchors for an even better time. A very fun climb with nicely spaced bolts. Michael Walker
    By Ray Snead
    Jun 3, 2002

    Now the route sports *five* bolts and a two bolt anchor. It is good fun, but I wouldn't call it a great beginner route. It is a low-angle and very positive, but the five bolts protect a 25m pitch - you do the math... I suspect that most gym-bred beginners will not be happy with the potential tumbling falls. A competent Eldo 5.8 leader, no problem.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 19, 2003
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The route is relatively nice and clean, and all the holds are positive. No need for any smearing on this slab.
    By Cisco
    Mar 28, 2004

    No way!!! this can be 5.8, maybe 5.7
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 18, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Perhaps, 5.7 with a little run out.
    By Merlin
    From: Grand Junction
    Aug 24, 2006
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Maybe it is because it is a sport climb, but if the 1st pitch of the First Flatiron Direct route is 5.6 and Frictionary at Sport Park is 5.7, then there is no way this is any harder than 5.6.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 31, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I think this one could be traditionally protected with some lightweight runouts.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Mar 21, 2009

    I'm not sure why this route doesn't have a higher star average. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a slab route at the 5.7 grade. The rock is super clean and solid; the climbing is consistent throughout. It's certainly worth coming to the watermark just to get on this one route. Cheers, BA
    By S. F. Pitman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I agree with Apgar. Pretty cool slab at the grade, and very consistent. Being pretty short it offered me a couple of cool chances to make dynamic reaches (extra fun considering I was soloing).
    By John Layko Torkleson
    Jun 24, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    As a fairly new leader, I felt the bolt spacing was well thought out. This is not a 5.6/5.7 gym climb. The bolts are run out for the grade and in all reality that is what bumps this from a 6 to a 7. A nice climb in a nice area. Don't go on weekends like we did; it felt like a gym.
    By James Weckbaugh
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 6, 2012

    Say, this is a solid 7.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Fun route with very positive holds all the way up. Bolting is great, if you're a solid 5.7 leader, you'll be fine.

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