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Lost Sparrow Spire
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Lost Sparrow Spire North Face T 

Lost Sparrow Spire North Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C1+ [details]
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, Oct 13, 2016
New Route: Yes
Season: Shady, avoid midwinter
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Nov 1, 2016

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Strappo at the summit, Lost Sparrow Spire

Description 

The climb takes the right one of the two obvious cracks on the north side. A chossy start gains a much cleaner crack 20 feet up. Up this to the ledge 70 feet up. Three bolts gain the saddle, the white caprock boulder and a two-bolt anchor. Rappel 85 feet.

We aided this. The crack is now much cleaner and should go free, (fingers->thin hands->hands) up to the ledge just below the summit.

Location 

The climb takes the right one of the two obvious cracks on the north side.

Protection 

Cams: 1 Green Alien; 2-3 sets from yellow Alien up to #2, Gold Camalot; 1 each larger Camalots.
Nuts: small selection medium-large.
Pitons: 1 hand-placed standard-angle piton (a fat-baby would work). Probably optional.


Photos of Lost Sparrow Spire North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast corner. Climb takes the right of the two...
Northeast corner. Climb takes the right of the two...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Sparrow Spire viewed from south
Lost Sparrow Spire viewed from south

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