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Upper Breadloaves - East
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Lost Pioneers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: J. Goodwin, 1980
Season: Faces E/NE
Page Views: 1,858
Submitted By: Tony B on May 15, 2007  with updates from Sam Cannon

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Maura Hahnenberger on Lost Pioneers


A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.


This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.


A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair. There are two sets of anchors found up top, one set directly on the route right below the big OW/finger crack, and another set to rap from (with a 70, don't know if a 60 would reach) from the top and to the left (easy to get to) of the OW.

Photos of Lost Pioneers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Pioneers to Green Crack makes an excellent li...
BETA PHOTO: Lost Pioneers to Green Crack makes an excellent li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Lost Pioneers.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Lost Pioneers.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the climb from the base - harder than it l...
BETA PHOTO: View of the climb from the base - harder than it l...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rappel anchor
The rappel anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the fun offwidth with perfect fing...
Looking down on the fun offwidth with perfect fing...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route from the base.
The route from the base.

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Like Tony said, the route looks low angle from the ground...and it is but it's somewhat awkward. Good holds, takes gear (better than the PG13 rating) and is fun. Just before reaching the summit you have to climb using a somewhat offwidth crack on the right until you can gain some good finger locks for your left hand. Anchor as of 8/10/07 included the slung block with a slotted nut for a back up. Not sure if it's bomber, but I rapped on it!

By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2010

Varied, fun, and interesting route. More challenging than it looks from the ground, for sure. We walked off the west side which proved to be almost as spicy as the climb up.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 13, 2010

Excellent route! The climb's personality seemed to be plug some good gear, then run it as you mantle or reach through a thin section to a bomber rest. I felt the top offwidth was the crux as you have to lieback the finger crack while your feet smear on the arete till you can get inside the offwidth. Decking onto the ledge below seemed likely due to rope stretch. Exhilarating! Anchor is now two fixed nuts equalized.
By Brian B Ballard
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 23, 2011

Great Route. We hiked to the No Cash Refunds Anchor and rapped from there..
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was actually my first 5.10 Trad lead. I thought the protection was no problem. I wouldn't rate this a PG13 at all.

This climb was actually more enjoyable than Bloody Fingers for me. Less anxiety and pump. Maybe because there were two distinct rests that I could take while climbing? Where Bloody Fingers was very sustained...

I thought it was actually a great first 5.10 lead! I lead a couple other 5.10's that day (White Lightning, Bloody Fingers, Dupree's Diamond Blues), and this was the only one I on-sighted. Give it a go!
By DRyan
From: Elko, NV
Sep 2, 2014

As of 9/14 there is no longer any slung block above the offwidth section that I could find. There is a slung boulder at the base of the offwidth, but then you'd be cheating yourself out of the best part of the climb! Instead, move to the far left of the ledge at the top of the finger cracks to find chains directly above where the route started. A 70 m got me down. A 60 m will likely work, but it'll be close.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it.
By Jordan Gilbert
From: Logan, UT
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This seemingly overlooked route is one of my favorite COR moderates. Such fun movement throughout, would get 4 stars if it was a bit more continuous.

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