BETA PHOTO: Summit of Lost Peak. Sling for the rappel to the s...
Lost Peak is the minor summit just north of The Wedge
. It's long and continuous west ridge bears similarities the the west ridge on its neighbor, but doesn't offer as spectacular climbing. The summit is a good deal lower than the Wedge and extremely close; perhaps a single 60 m rope could be rigged to form a Tyrolean between the two summits, what a wild ride that would be!
As with any of the remote Organ peaks, be extremely careful about loose rock while attempting a summit bid. There is not enough traffic to really clean up any of the routes. Enjoy getting to the top of this "Lost" but not forgotten peak. And while your here, consider summiting Third Peak or the Wedge too.
Lost Peak can be approached from the west by following the general approach route for Dingleberry
, and then striking up directly for the western slopes of the peak. Approaching from the east is actually pretty nice, provided you can avoid the thorny sections of the approach gullies. the gully directly beneath the east face of Lost peak is mostly maple wooded slopes, at least until you get below the cliff-band elevation. finally, Lost Peak can be approached after summiting The Wedge
by rappelling of the east side to the shoulder, and then scrambling north to the saddle between the two peaks.
Count on the approach taking most of your day, and only 1-2 pitches of roped climbing.
Climbing Season For the Organ Mountains area.
Weather station 10.8 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lost Peak
West Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c New Mexico
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Lost Peak
First half of the climb goes up a gully which starts on the left side of the western end of the bottom of Lost Peak. Second half is on a narrower ridge line. Route finding is pretty straightforward in both areas. When the gully widens at the top, staying to the right is a bit cleaner, but some dirt cannot be avoided through the short vegetated saddle above it. An easy ramp on the north side then leads to the ridge line proper where it narrows. Contrary to the advice given in Ingraham, we went to...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
BETA PHOTO: Lost Peak on the left, next to the Wedge on the ri...