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Unsorted Routes:

Lost Nuts 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Tim Heid on May 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Lost Nuts - .12b

Description 

Lost Nuts climbs the distinct flaring crack just to the left of Death Watch. From the ground it doesn't look so bad...until you try to do the first moves! Hard flaring jams, plus the leaning nature of the crack make this thing a beast! After getting established, move up a bit and clip a bolt a few feet before the flare pinches down to a seam. After that it's still in your face with tiny gear, strenuous stances, and not much rest. Fortunately, there's a 'Thank God' jug near about 80% of the way up...

Location 

Up and right of Chug A Lug. Starts on a boulder just left of Death Watch. Pretty obvious flare.

Protection 

1 bolt plus lots of tiny gear. Small nuts and C3's.


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By Tim Heid
From: AZ
May 27, 2016

This rig was harder than it looked for the ground. I TR'd it and still couldn't do a handful of the moves! Especially down low in the flare..

Would be a rad lead! The upper seam took bomber 00C3's.

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