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Lost in Time 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Jasperson, B&K Grohusky, and J. Neumann, 2001
Page Views: 3,044
Submitted By: Guy H. on Mar 23, 2009  with updates from Jay Eggleston

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Matt following P2....


The second pitch of Lost in Time is one of the best of its grade for the caynon. The quality is on par with "Upside the Cranium" and "Panic in the Gray Room".

P1: The first pitch starts on the blunt arete to the right of the obvious large tree about 80 feet up the wall. Place a small cam at the start and clip two bolts along the arete. Low angle climbing and one bolt leads to the tree belay. Let your partner lead this one. (5.9, 80 feet)

P2: The money pitch.... Follow 8 bolts up the clean slab, which is only marred by a horizontal crack after the third bolt. (#4 Friend) The large cam is probably optional, since the climbing is easy/secure in this section. Small edges lead past a few more cruxes to the bolt anchors above Handcrack-A-rete. (5.10b, 80 feet)

Rap Handcrack-A-rete with a 60m rope.


Lost in Time climbs the slab to the right of Handcrack-A-rete.


Light rack to #2 for P1, and a #4 Friend for P2....

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By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The rock on this first pitch is definitely more friable than the second making for a not so nice P1. The second pitch is definitely the beauty. I made the mistake of letting my partner take this one and you would have thought the bolts were 20' apart (rather than 6') the way he whined.
By slim
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Excellent 2nd pitch. Well-bolted for the most part, although I couldn't clip the last bolt easily from the best stance (and I am pretty tall). If you are short, it might be exciting.
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 27, 2012

The quality is indeed on par with Panic and Upside, but the climbing is not quite as good. Panic is much more exciting and insecure. Upside the Cranium is twice as long with better position.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 13, 2013

I was impressed by how well this route was bolted - I'm not quite 5'4" and could clip all the draws and felt the pro was well-placed for the crux moves. I placed a #4 Camalot partway up (new style, but old one would be even better). Felt harder than Ionic Column to me.
By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Apr 11, 2014

I found the best way to get to Lost in Time is to lead Handcrack-a-rete's both pitches, then lower to the tree ledge, set an anchor, and slab to the top. A double rap on Handcrack's anchor will get you down while avoiding the haggard first pitch. Lost in Time is a great Vrain slab.
By Jim Clarke
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Slightly harder than Ionic Column, perhaps because you get tired and it's longer after slabbing out on 1st pitch..

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