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Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Ending Crack T 
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Half Ascent T 
Lost in the Sespe T 
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 
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White Spider, The T 

Lost in the Sespe 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 265'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Apr 1, 2015

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Lost in the Sespe

Description 

Lost in the Sespe features over two hundred feet of continuous climbing up a wild part of Black Wall. A 70m rope is required to complete the very long first pitch.

Start by two pipes on the wall and head up towards a very small pine. Climb left up the scruffy ramp, then back right to gain the right facing ribs. Thin gear in a horizontal protects the moves to the leaning corner. Follow the corner to the huge ledge above, make your own belay.
A second pitch of easy terrain leads to the backside walk-off.

  • This climb will earn an additional star or two when it cleans up, it features quality rock like its neighbors down the wall. Until then expect some scruff.
  • In the future, it may be possible to avoid the scruffy ramp by climbing directly, but this variation would require some cleaning. For now, take the ramp.
  • Careful use of slings is required to avoid rope drag on the first pitch.
  • Making this a safe lead requires the leader be solid at the grade and experienced at placing gear.

Location 

Far left side of the wall. Left of Half Ascent, by the pipes.

Protection 

Stoppers, small and medium cams (doubles), one large cam (BD #4 or #5), tcu's (singles), many slings


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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 1, 2015

Dev. Notes:
This climb was reestablished in February 2015.
The ascent was in response to a line of bolts that recently appeared on the wall, terminating at a sport anchor mid-face. I led past the hardware, placing my own gear, and completed the line to the huge ledge above the corner. A second pitch took us to the rim, where we walked off the back. I returned a few days later and removed the bolts while on rappel.
Black Wall is a historic trad venue. It's important we respect this place and the adventurous style of climbing it represents.
By Domlin Juul
Mar 14, 2016

Great job keeping it Trad and pulling those sport bolt travesties.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 15, 2016

This is a very exciting addition to Sespe Gorge! Thank you, Alex.

It's worth noting that this route connects with the upper section of the Sespe Classic McTavish.
Rock Climbing Photo: McTavish - yellow
McTavish - yellow