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Lost Horizons  

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 320'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Schaeffer FFA Childers/Mack
Season: shade until early afternoon
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: t.schwartz on May 8, 2017

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Description 

Three sustained pitches of endurance laybacks and fingers with cryptic bolted cruxes define this magnificent corner system left of Shangri La.

(P1) Solo marginal but easy rock left of the corner system until you can easily traverse into the crack at a .75 placement. Continue up the corner to a pod and a bolt. Fire the crux of the pitch and climb tips and fingers to a rest. Climb suspect face holds and place thin cams in the crack. Rejoin the crack at a finger lock. Continue up fingers to a bolt. Finish the corner on thin hands to a nice belay ledge (5.12+)

(P2) Leave the ledge climbing tips and fingers to scary diving board feature. Stand on the feature place a nest of thin cams and blast into a tips/fingers layback eventually turning to hands/fists, gain a pod. Climb up the pod eventually clipping two bolts. The crux is very unlikely and perplexing. End on a nice belay ledge. (5.13)

(P3) Leave the ledge on nice fingers, jam/layback your way to a pod. Negotiate the pod to a steep fingers layback. Try not to pump out on the endurance corner climbing it to its end. Eventually step out on face holds and traverse left following bolts. Weird anchor on a nice sloping foot ledge. (5.12+)

(P4) Did not do. Looks like funky face climbing passing bolts and drilled pins. (5.11?)

Location 

Bolted anchors.
70m rope.
Rap the route.

Protection 

1x purple c3
3x .1
4x .2
4x .3
6x .4
5x .5
1x .75
1x #1
1x #2
1x #3
Draws


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