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22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 
Beautiful Day T 
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Tralfamadore T 

Lost Highway 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: D.Mabe
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,169
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: The line

Description 

Named after my current favorite beer at the local Mother Road Brewery, Lost Highway imperial black IPA. Much like stretches of Route 66 of which this beer is dedicated to, how did a route this good get lost in time?

While borrowing about 15ft of hand crack from its neighbor, Beautiful Day, Lost Highway climbs on and near the striking arete feature finishing with a steep and exposed headwall.

Begin with a bouldery start on a flake above a nice belay ledge followed by splitter fingers with jugs (dreamy) to connect with the arete. Stay on the arete for a few more moves and up to a horizontal and step over to the left-facing dihedral handcrack of BD . Take a #3 Cam for a cruise with a double-length runner (5.8) and up to a roof. Beautiful Day escapes right. Lost Highway makes an airy step around the arete (5.10) to join the pumpy headwall. Use caution around some chockstones, that can mostly be avoided with face holds. Finish with a rather splitter crack to the rim.

Destined to be a mega-classic for the grade and area.

Location 

LH is located climbers left of Beautiful Day

Protection 

Belay anchor consists of .3-.75C4 sized crack.
Rack: a few med stoppers, a couple of micro-cams, (1-2)#.3-#2C4, and (1)#3C4 will give you plenty of options. Several runners.


Photos of Lost Highway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay, leading up Lost Highway on a beautiful April...
Clay, leading up Lost Highway on a beautiful April...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Highway topo.  And good perspective of surrou...
BETA PHOTO: Lost Highway topo. And good perspective of surrou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Highway imperial black IPA, by Mother Road Br...
Lost Highway imperial black IPA, by Mother Road Br...

Comments on Lost Highway Add Comment
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By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2015

Here, there, or anywhere, this climb gets all the stars. Walk the 3 and sling anything you leave in the right crack super long or add two letter grades and four letter words.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 28, 2015

48 inch sling on any pro in the hand crack would not be a bad idea. It was manageable with a shoulder length on a single piece about half way up the hand crack. My first route at Volunteer and it was a great introduction. Nice find Darren.

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