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Lost Fingers 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P. Cottescu-J. Arias 1/82
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: Dan Petty on Jan 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Brasilians on the 5.10c last pitch of Lost Fingers...

Description 

Pitch 1 - 5.10a:
Start in a short finger crack that is vertical with a small roof containing a piton. Pull over the bulge and continue up a ramp with crack to a 3-piton anchor.

Pitch 2 - 5.10a:
From the anchor traverse right for 10 meters following a discontinuous foot ledge and horizontal finger crack to a corner. Follow the corner crack system upward for 10 meters until a ledge system allows you to trend back toward the left and upward to the right side of a large roof. Belay from pitons and a large slung horn.

Pitch 3 - 5.10c:
Follow the slightly overhanging thin-hands crack for 20 meters and pull a lip leading to lower angled climbing (7 meters) and a bolted rap anchor.

Descent:
Rap to the pitch one anchors for Diedro de Jim and from there down to the forth class gully which leads back to the base of the route.

Location 

From the base of Aguja Fray head up and right about half way up a gully system to the base of a predominant right-trending crack system with a short vertical section and roof at the start.

Protection 

Doubles to 3".


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By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jan 30, 2014

After looking at the description here as well as the photo of pitch 3, it looks like we got off route after the first pitch. Instead of going right from the first belay we followed the crack up and left. Eventually we hit the top of the formation just right of Sifuentes Weber. Great route, I'll have to look back at the guidebook to see what we did.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 11, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

P3 is as good as it gets! Pretty varied in sizes with the crux being very tight hands. It's got a decent variety of larger jams through most of it though.

I thought P1 felt pretty stiff as well (right at the start). It's pretty polished.

Rope drag can be pretty bad on P2, as should be obvious from the route topo.

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