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Lost Ego 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 3,642
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jul 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Lost Ego


Follow the slightly less than vertical hand and fist crack to a large pod. Make some commiting moves out of the pod (crux) and continue on the finger crack to the top. This route protects well for its duration and is probably my favorite lead at Taylor's. A large cam (#4 camalot) adds some security for the crux. For Minnesota multipitch fun climb Sentinel Crack as a second pitch.


This route is immediately below Sentinel Crack. From the base of Sentinel Crack walk down a some what steep dirt slope, turn left and find the base of the cliff.


Standard rack including a larger cam (#4 camalot). Standard top rope setup.

Photos of Lost Ego Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Ego. 5.8
Lost Ego. 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Skapyak, 1983.
Mark Skapyak, 1983.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the rope.
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the rope.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay Nadeau doing something crazy...
Clay Nadeau doing something crazy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost ego
BETA PHOTO: Lost ego
Rock Climbing Photo: leading Lost Ego on Halloween weekend. Photo by JL...
leading Lost Ego on Halloween weekend. Photo by JL...
Rock Climbing Photo: Juneko leads Lost Ego.
Juneko leads Lost Ego.

Comments on Lost Ego Add Comment
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By paintrain
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best climbs we did at taylors falls (and it only gets 1 star). A 3 camelot will get you through the wide at the top.

By Andrew Krosbakken
Nov 19, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is classic and a must do. The crux is coming out of the cave/ hole in the route but is protectable.

When your on top of this climb you can then go down a tree rooted gully (easy, not to sketchy) or you could do kind of a second pitch and climb Sentinel Crack which starts on the just on top and to the left of Lost Ego. Sentinel Crack, another classic climb and a must do.
By Tyler V
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Probably my all time TF favorite. My only gripe is that it isn't 1000' taller because it is just that much fun.

It is just a spectacular hand crack with a tricky (but protected)crux coming out of the cave.

They call it 5.8ish, which is probably accurate, but if you have your jamming act together it will feel pretty effortless and 100% enjoyable.
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 14, 2010

This is a great climb that is very well protected for leading.

NOTE: Someone removed that loose rock at the top (crux) of this climb that was a key foot hold for exiting the offwidth section. This increases the difficulty a little bit to roughly 5.9- for that one move.
By Shane Irons
From: Edina, MN
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The offwidth at the top is now the most difficult part of the climb. 5.9 on lead.
By mark55401
From: Minneapolis
Jul 30, 2011

echoing the previous comments, the crux is exiting the pod/topping out. a fun route and, at least to the pod, a good lead for newer climbers (protects well)
By John Ericson
From: USA
Dec 31, 2011

This was my second lead on trad. Fun and easy to protect the whole way.

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