Lost Brother Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Lost Brother Credit: xrez
Obscure aid climbing routes and a couple burly Gabel free routes. Between Cathedral Spires and Sentinel Rock, this is the crag you stare at from the east face of El Cap. Choss on the opening pitches or two but then cleans up to beautiful Taft Granite.
North Facing so a great area for spring through fall.
Park at the turnout on the left side of Southside Drive 0.9 miles from the El Cap crossover. Walk towards the crag (visible from the parking area) until you start to head uphill. Work your way gradually to the right past multiple large boulders until reaching a rocky wash/gully. Follow gully uphill until the top of the first pitch is visible directly to the left and upward progress can no longer be made up the gully (immediately after climbing over a downed tree). Cut left through the forest following cairns directly to start of first pitch. This approach is a bit longer than heading directly from parking to the toe of the buttress, but is better for carrying loads. ~1 hour with loads
Climbing Season For the Yosemite Valley area.
Weather station 2.6 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lost Brother
Blood & Coin 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Lost Brother
New 10 pitch aid route with amazing thin beak pitches and thin flake nailing that will go free eventually. Goes up the right side of the obvious white flake on the face of Lost Brother. Most looseness has been avoided. A nice escape from the normal choss horror show that is the average obscure new route.Pitch by pitch description tba..Possible to bivy without a ledge at top of pitch 1, 3, 5 or 6 (both uncomfortable), and pitch 7. ATC Bivy and Yeti Mating Ledge are both stellar bivy ledges....[more] Browse More Classics in California