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Lost Boys 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mysterious Guys
Page Views: 2,454
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Getting through the high crux on Lost Boys.


One of the most popular routes at Broughtons, Lost Boys lives up to the hype. The crux is tricky, and some what heady, but the rest of the climbing is fairly straight forward. Long moves or difficult sections will always be rewarded with a good stance and a rest.


Bat Wall, far right side.



Photos of Lost Boys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Terry battles the first crux.
Kyle Terry battles the first crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Boys
Lost Boys

Comments on Lost Boys Add Comment
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By hemp22
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There used to be a dinner-plate-sized loose flake that was used as an undercling for the move past the last bolt. This flake came off some time during the 2008-09 winter. The move on the remaining undercling holds remains basically the same.
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Feb 14, 2012

Perhaps a hold or two broke around the roof part of this route? The guidebook 'crux' at the top felt normal compared to other .10ds @this crag - however, the real crux now seems to be in the overhanging scoop/prow - requires a stemming knee bar and some long moves on just ok holds (you could see some broken hold scars); this part felt solid .11b/c to me. I climbed it twice just to make sure there wasn't alternate easy beta or a hold i missed - rad route, but I was bummed for my three other climbing partners (all solid .10+/.11- climbers) couldn't touch those moves even on TR.
By hemp22
Feb 15, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think the guidebook refers to 2 separate "crux" sections on this route. The general consensus seems to be that the first hard spot, at the 4th bolt where you pull around/over the overhanging prow, is the real crux of the route. It is insecure and sequential, and definitely hard to figure out the first time.
The upper "crux" listed in the guidebook, at the last bolt did get maybe little bit harder due to a broken hold a couple years ago (see previous comment), but is still more straight-forward than the lower crux.
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 16, 2012

thanks for the info - either way it is a really cool route taking a very striking line - but this thing is way sandbagged...onsighted a lot of .11+ stuff that went down easier than this thing!
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Apr 22, 2012

Ben. . .
I agree with you. Even with the sequence figured out, I would say Lost Boys is a bit sandy at 10d. 11a/b seems fair. Most routes on the Bat Wall feel a letter grade stiff in my opinion, but I think Lost Boys is a bit beyond that.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'll agree, there's an upper and lower crux. I thought the lower was more balancy and harder to onsight and the upper was reachy and slightly strenuous, but more straight forward. Great route!
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 16, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

great route. I found that a nice kneebar lock going through the overhang slot crux made it pretty manageable.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 5, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

All old bolts replaced as of 4/5/15, thanks to ASCA and volunteers. Steel biners added to the anchor.
By benson87
From: Portland
Jun 21, 2016

A wonderful route that certainly makes you think during the crux sections. Don't think this is a 5.11 at all once you figure out the beta. The climbing isn't quite straight forward at first glance, so I understand why some might think it's harder than it is on one's first attempt if you're not a solid boulderer. A must do at Broughton for sure. Thanks for the retrobolting!!
By Emmerson
From: Portland OR
Apr 16, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Best warm up for the harder stuff on bat wall IMO. Still pretty hard for 10d though.

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