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Blackbeard's Tears T 
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Lost At Sea 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kai Defty, Matt Delheimer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Lurker on Mar 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Kai on the FA

Description 

Cool pockets and edges on a just under-vertical face. Crux near the 5th bolt, making a long move past a small pocket and a bad crimp.

Location 

To the right of Shrapnel. Far right side of the south face of the Main Wall.

Protection 

6 bolts, anchor.


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By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 26, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Super quality route! One of the beat here. The reach is indeed long. I pulled a shiny bail biner off the crux bolt to fit my draw, claim it and I'll get it back to you.
By Julian Bobilev
Sep 9, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

To clarify, this route is the rightmost of the two slab routes next to each other (left one is Scurvy). Climbing is chill to the fifth bolt but then it gets super thin. Felt harder than 11c but probably would be 11a if it were a slab route at Donner.

Chances of redpointing deteriorate the more time you spend at the crux as the sharp crimps really take a toll on the skin.

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