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Lost Arrow Spire Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 16 pitches, 1400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Pat Callis and Warren Harding, June 21,1968
Page Views: 12,047
Submitted By: Roger Suen on Oct 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Awesome 6th Pitch splitter

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


"With an easier approach than Half Dome, plenty of easy to moderate climbing and plush bivy ledges, Lost Arrow Direct is an excellent introductory wall. Nearby Yosemite Falls is stunning. The climbing is neither too steep nor too serious. This route is more involved and therefore harder than the South Face of Washington Column or Skull Queen but easier than The Prow."
The Supertopo beta has all that you should need.

You can fill up water when the falls are pumping on the approach as you will come very close to them. Saves you some trouble there.

The wind whips out of the amphitheater pretty fiercely and expect to get sprayed by the falls. (Peeing can be an adventure)


C2 Aid Rack - Nuts Double, Cams Triple, Offset Aliens useful. Rivet Hangers, Hooks

Photos of Lost Arrow Spire Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of pitch 4 Lost Arrow Spire. beat
Top of pitch 4 Lost Arrow Spire. beat
Rock Climbing Photo: Hauling up Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Hauling up Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lost Arrow Spire
BETA PHOTO: The Lost Arrow Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the start of Lost Arrow Spire Direct
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the start of Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down, you can see the first big bivy ledge...
Looking down, you can see the first big bivy ledge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the Spire
Looking up the Spire

Comments on Lost Arrow Spire Direct Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Oct 5, 2011

The climbing on this route is extremely straightforward; in this, it is indeed suitable for the n00b. The logistics are another thing entirely, which is what sent the 3 guys from Wisconsin home with their laminated topos between their legs when we were up there.

The approach is burly and you might need a rest day by the time you get done with it. Water is a hassle unless you arrive while the little trickle at the base of the LA Chimney is flowing- springtime/post-rain only. Humping it from the Valley is no fun, and fetching it from Yosemite Creek entails at least several hours' worth of shenanigans. Getting over to the rim at the top requires some forethought; the alternative (climbing out of the notch) is non-gumby terrain, loose and sketchy.

Logistics aside, the location is amazing and worth all the toil. Special features include giganto bivy ledges, a seasonal torrent, and wind that will keep you in your tent until 8 a.m.
By Shelton Hatfield
Mar 2, 2014

There is a large disk shaped block precariously wedged in the top of the fourth pitch chimney, immediately before reaching First Error. Although the leader moves left onto the face before they would encounter the block, be aware of where your haul line is running (duh).
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jun 6, 2014

Although a lot of this route is great rock, there are a couple of heads up sections. When we climbed this in 2011, I knocked off a rock in the 4th pitch chimney when i took a fall. This was before the new topos that clearly state "go left". Be sure you do that. Also, my partner took a pretty big fall on the 5th pitch when a microwave sized block cam off underneath the horizontal traverse. The rest of the route seemed great.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2015

In the fishbowl of Camp IV, it was not cool to be climbing with direct aid, or even worse, a bathook route! Young sinners were shunned by the older brothers of the rescue camp. But Warren Harding did not! He partied with the upstarts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Arrow Direct and the Mad Bolter's Wall
Lost Arrow Direct and the Mad Bolter's Wall

Rock Climbing Photo: Second Terror!
Second Terror!

Davey Hammock, El Cap soloist and guardian of the Sandia Crest. He scored the bathooks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Davy Hammock, 1975
Davy Hammock, 1975

That someone else would want to do this route too was incredible. Davy and I arrived at the base of the wall in the dark and woke up an equally surprised party of three. Tom Rohr, a totally self taught wall climber, introduced himself to us as "The Mad Bolter". Instead, The climbed the blank wall along side us with more bolts than we'd ever seen before.
By Alex Palombitch
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 25, 2016

FA: Pat Callis, Warren Harding
By Emilio Rivera
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 19, 2017

The middle of the 2nd pitch is C3. Have a variety of hooks ready, 60ft fall potential, caught me off guard. The approach is hell with a haulbag.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
May 4, 2017

"The middle of the 2nd pitch is C3...60 foot fall potential". I don't recall that being the case. In fact, pitch 2 was my first ever C2 pitch and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy and well protected it was. The hooks and rivets were all in between great bolts when I did it in 2010.

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