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Lost Angel

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno Arête S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Lost in Tradslation T 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Outta This World T 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

Lost Angel Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.0089, -105.41 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,863
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001


66° | 43°

58° | 39°

47° | 33°

48° | 31°

53° | 34°
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.

L->R (incomplete):

Zen Garden Wall:

A. Fright Grooves, 8+ X, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.
D. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
E. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
F. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
G. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
H. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.

From the creek:

I. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.
J. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.
JK. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.
K. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
L1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.
L2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.
M1. Variation to Hunky Monkey, 11+, 2p, bolts.
M2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.
N. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.
O. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.
P. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
Q. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
R. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.
S? Podophobia, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
T? Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.
U. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
V. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
W1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
W2. 5.9 Crack, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
W3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.
X. Wide Crack, 8, gear.
Y. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.
Z. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.
above Y. Interzone, 1p, gear.
AA. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,
BB. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.
CC. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.
DD. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.
EE. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.
FFGG. Lost in Tradslation, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
GG. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.
HH. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.
II. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.
JJ. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.
KK. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.
LL. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.

Wake Up Wall:

MM. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.
NN. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
OO. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
PP. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
QQ. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
RR. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
SS. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.
TT. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.
UU. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.
UUWW. Outta This World, 12-, 1p, 75', gear.
VV. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
WW. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.
XX. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.
YY. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
ZZ. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
AAA. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
BBB. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There 

On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.7 miles from here

54 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lost Angel

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lost Angel:
Time Traveler   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
China Doll   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3     Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 350'   
AAArete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Drop Zone   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Night Grooves   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Strange Cargo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
Jungle Blues From Jupiter   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Autumn   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
Divination   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
Hunky Monkey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Spiders From Mars   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Naked Lunch   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 5 pitches, 360'   
Variation to Hunky Monkey   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches   
Divination Direct   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 90'   
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Earth Voyage   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Dynamometer   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Archangel   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
Podophobia   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
China Doll (P1-2, free)   5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lost Angel

Featured Route For Lost Angel
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet cranking on the first pitch...

Autumn 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel
This route begins at the farthest left portion of dry ground (at least, during low water) on Lost Angel. Some tricky moves off the deck (crux) lead to easy 5.10 climbing up a black-streaked headwall.The second pitch climbs up and left, tackling a small roof at mid-height, and reaches a belay after 70 feet.Third pitch is somewhat tricky and not very sustained. One can either walk off or rappel....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Lost Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Misty mountain tops in Dream Canyon, photo: Bob Ho...
Misty mountain tops in Dream Canyon, photo: Bob Ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lost Angel Formation, photo: Bob Horan.
The Lost Angel Formation, photo: Bob Horan.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down canyon from the 2nd belay station on ...
Looking down canyon from the 2nd belay station on ...

Comments on Lost Angel Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2004
In 2003, Vaino Kodas and partners put up six new routes on Wake Up Wall at the top of Lost Angel.See for details.

I climbed four of these routes recently, and have added them to the data base. I hope Vaino will add his excellent photos to these route descriptions.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2006
It's not a big deal, but there are too many climbs here under Lost Angel. It would be nice to separate them out under sub-crags. For example, it is not easy now to find all the climbs on the Zen Garden Wall, or Wake Up Wall. These two areas are both under Lost Angel although they are probably nearly 1/4 mile apart!

Navigation to the base of these climbs is complex and confusing. But that is part of the fun of Dream Canyon! The map above is a great help, although there is room for improvement.
By Chad
Nov 20, 2007
My guidebook was grabbed at base of the Lost Angel wall. If you have it, please let me know.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 12, 2008
I have a complaint/ warning to others. Yesterday the weather was cloudy, misting, and light rain all day, so I figured instead of letting the weather shut me down like it has for about 2 weeks now I would go aid China Doll. Seeing as I have never been to Dream Canyon, this was probably a bad idea. We missed the correct approach and basically ended up right in the middle of the canyon below upper and above lower.

The problem was that we had no idea what we were on top of at the top and there is a ton of spur trails. The tops of the cliffs didn't present any distinct land marks to navigate from (we didn't know what cliff was which as you can't see the face from above) and it was unclear which drainage was the correct one to descend. We went way too far east in an attempt to find a for sure safe way down. The problem was we didn't want to slip on top of a big dome or slab of rock and end up at the bottom dead, or get cliffed out by taking the wrong way down. So, we just took the obvious main trail down to the bottom. Up the creek we went, crossing like 5 times I was sure glad I left my pack up top...not.

We arrived at the Lost Angel super exhausted not to mention running out of time, only had time to link the first 2 pitches and lower/back clean. I didn't climb at all, just a horrendous walk in a soaked canyon. with extra warm clothes and tons of gear for nothing! I guess at least my friend got some more aid experience, but at what price?

We came back up the ramp and saw another option we were considering for descent earlier, definitely cliffed out but was probably less then 100 yards from the ramp. For some reason we thought that deadly option was the dream dome descent but actually we were atop midnight instead of the LA. I hope I can find the ramp next time as there wasn't much that was really distinct about where we popped out.

So, the lesson, expect to waste a day (or maybe just part of the day if you start early enough) just finding the formation/route you want to climb here as navigation can suck. Probably good practice for descending into the black canyon on a smaller scale.

How many others have been lost here? I bet I'm not the first by a long-shot. Studying the contour of the river (in relation to the map in your guidebook) seemed helpful after the fact. We figured that out while we were lost in the bottom wondering where we were.
By Charles Cundiff
Jul 26, 2010
Yep, I got lost, too. Don't go here for the first time if you are under any time constraint. It'll likely take a bit to find your bearings, but once you understand the canyon, it shouldn't be too difficult to find your way around.
By Evan18
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2016
I was up here for the first time in a few years and was blown away by the amount of wear that the area is starting to show. The area to the west of the parking lot to the top of Lost Angel and to the gully to Dream Dome is getting pretty thrashed by camping. It's also crazy how many trails are getting cut. I don't think it is primarily climbers as the area is clearly 'out' now that it is close dispersed camping to Boulder, but just I thought that as other use of the area is on the rise we pay more attention to how we travel over and take care of the land.

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