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Reunion Rock
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impuissant (impotent) S 
Loss of Sensation S 
Trojan Determination S 

Loss of Sensation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Loss of Sensation. Finishing traverse to the ancho...

Description 

Follow a bolted route on the right side of Reunion Rock. The belayer will most likely be standing on pavement. This is a very well protected route, one of the few of its kind in the park. When I did it, one of the first few hangers was severely bent. One rope should do the trick for the descent.

This route is given 5.10 in the guidebooks, but feels more like 5.9. Some people even think that it is easier than Trojan Determination (the old 5.8 route just to the left).

Protection 

several bolts, fixed anchors


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By Kevin Fons
Mar 9, 2003

I'm pretty sure this is the route commonly called Trojan Condemnation.There has been contreversy about this route possibly being rap bolted or done on hooks. Some of the bolts do not seem to be at natural stances and are wierd to clip (in my opinion).

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2003

Try the route to the left of Trojan Determination. Its a very clean, straight line with five or six bolts in the 5.10 b/c range depending upon how much you have to wander to find holds.

I met a climber from Canada just coming down from the route who said it was called 'Impuissance' ('Impotence' for those of us who don't speak/read French).
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Mar 17, 2016

Looks like cake walk. Actually quite harder than it looks with a few thinker spots. Mainly your just fighting the pump in the crux(es) because of the small holds and looking around for the next.

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