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Losing My Religion  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 205', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tony Calderone, Stan Contrell
Season: Spring,Summer,Fall
Page Views: 3,476
Submitted By: Spencer Daniels on Sep 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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flake

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - Two easyish layback sections that take good pro, but don't necessarily need it, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Chain anchors (95')

P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Do look for an inward flaring crack that warrants some thought and a double sling. Sling the bush on your way upwards right, while on lookout for a pin. Straight up and right onto the belay ledge (chain anchors), or head right at the pin for a very fun mantle onto the ledge. (55')

P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three(?) bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)

Fun to lead, easy to follow.

Location 

East of the WaterFront, West of Bare Foot barbados
Park at Gate Buttress 1.25 Miles up LCC head up towards the waterfront.

Protection 

Standard LCC rack


Photos of Losing My Religion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the 3rd pitch! Great leading for Jor...
At the top of the 3rd pitch! Great leading for Jor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the second pitch.
Leading the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Losing my Religion
Losing my Religion
Rock Climbing Photo: rapping off second pitch
rapping off second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: leading the first pitch
leading the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: bolted slab on the third pitch
bolted slab on the third pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down off the top of the third pitch
looking down off the top of the third pitch

Comments on Losing My Religion Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2014

To access this climb, head west from "Barefoot in Barbados" around the corner. It's not on the same wall, which confused me and my partner as it was listed as being between "Baja Breakdown" and "Barefoot," but it's not.
By Tim G.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 17, 2016

This is a fun little multipitch outing. It would be great for a beginning trad leader. The next time I do it, I would link the 2nd and 3rd pitches since they are both pretty short and rope drag shouldn't be a problem at all.

I didn't see a bush to sling on the 2nd pitch, but there is plenty of options for pro. The chains at the top have been fixed and looked good.
By Nik Sorenson
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The second pitch has sprouted a couple of bolts. I like the placement. They protect potentially bad falls with bad gear.
By Oscar Wheeler
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 7, 2017

1st pitch is combo of trad and sport. bolts protect the more difficult moves. Seemed a little soft for a 5.7 lcc but really enjoyed it.

2nd pitch has an interesting move by the piton up near the anchors and is also protected well.

Did not climb third pitch. but looked to be mainly bolted slab climbing.
By zoso
Jun 14, 2017

Quite entertaining route, not gritty. Silly not to combine P2+P3. 70m=2 raps.

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