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Losing It 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 340'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Em Holland, Paul Rasmussen, 8/10.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 22, 2010

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Greg doing the hard work

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cool funky roof/overlap cruxes lead to a gorgeous golden knobby face. Second pitch goes past some golden slab, horizontal cracks, and a knobby bulge to a large ledge with a bolted anchor (5.9, 90'). Third pitch wanders up easy, indistinct climbing (somewhat dirty).

Location 

On the right side of the steep section of the wall there is a huge three-trunked tree near the wall. Start behind this and go up and a bit right over the roof, then angle up and left, and at the very top a bit back right to a bolted anchor. A 70m rope just BARELY makes it down - might not if you have a short 70. Second pitch angles left and up past a white bulge to a giant ledge (with absolutely no pro), then left again and back right to the top.

Protection 

Pitch 1: 10 bolts, bolted anchor, 115' ("short" 70m ropes a bit too short to lower - knot the end of the rope!)
pitch 2: 2 draws, gear 0.3-3", 90', bolted anchor on ledge.
pitch 3: gear 0.6-2", 100', gear anchor. Dirty, not recommended.


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