||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||July 1, 2007 Brian Mulvihill, Aaron Gams|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||39|
|Submitted By: ||Gams on Jul 24, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: As seen from Lake Taminah
New route last year:
Start about 30' left of the Dem Bones start, 4th cl to base of middle of three right-leaning dihedrals to platform.
P1 climb approx. 30' to left break to gain left dihedral, follow to blocky alcove. 5.5.
P2 step up on black knob right of alcove (5.10-), traverse left above alcove, stem wide crack (5.7), cruise mellow low angle face-crack to highest flake, then hand traverse left (5.8) to fun 5.6 wander on great stone. Belay just before huge ledge (to avoid loose rocks).
P3 Immediately back on big ledge from top of last pitch, dihedral w/ roof, pull around to right (5.8, awkward), follow crack up and right to roof (5.9 LB), move up (5.10-) to steep crack. Reach high (5.10+, maybe 5.10 for tall folks) to incredible horn. Easy 5th for about 60' to belay in or near crack of Dem Bones above traverse pitch.
P4 Flared hands (5.8) in crack left of Dem Bones 5.9 flare. 5.6ish to easy 5th up and left toward base of sweet splitter of Dem Bones.
P5 The "awkward 5.6" of Dem Bones to the crack just right of the splitter. The right crack is 5.9 (The crack is good, but Dem Bones splitter is better).
Suggestion: climb the first 3 or 4 pitches of Los Huesos to the last pitch, then finish on Dem Bones for 3 pitches of good 5.10. Good climb, good rock but only 2 stars because remember, it's the Teton Range, not Yosemite.
Good gear, only runout on easy 5th.
Gear to 3" should be fine. Maybe doubles up to 2", and small-medium nuts for P3 crux. A black alien is useful to protect the 5.9 LB roof of P3.