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(n) Snake Rock
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A Desperate Man T 
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Don't Tread On Me S 
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Hemp Liberation S 
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Lords of Karma S 
Made in the Shade S 
Notice to Appear S 
Reptile T,TR 
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Lords of Karma 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John "JC" Collins March 1991
Page Views: 511
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on May 19, 2014

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Entering the crux on lords of karma

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This stunning sport line climbs a water streak on widely varying terrain. It's almost as if someone took a stunning, old school line from Ceüse or Verdon and plonked it on the Backside. This is a stout line, and it will test your head, stamina, and footwork.

After climbing one of more sandbagged 5.10's in Smith, tricky crimping leads to arete where a rest can be found. A tricky clip and some intense pulling on side pulls and pockets leads to a dash to the next clipping stance. Rest here and get psyched, if you screw up the sequence pulling on to the slab you'll be clocking some air time! After a much needed respite, the final two bolts tackle a physical overhang on good holds.

Location 

Above Hemp Liberation

Protection 

13 bolts. Long sling on the 4th, you shouldn't need to unclip the bolt above the roof as the book says.


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By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2014

Take the grade with a grain of salt. Probably harder than Churning or Kings, easier than Go Dog Go. 12c at Smith means different things to different people.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
May 23, 2014

So, Jon, what you're saying is that Go Dog is harder than Churning or Kings? Hmmm...
By CBecker
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Sept. 19 2015 I discovered a core-shot in my rope after a burn on this route, during which I took a couple falls. It was an older rope and getting pretty worn anyway so I'm not entirely sure it was caused by something particular to this route. The next time I got on it I was more leery of the gear and felt the basket of all the fixed draws before I clipped them and didn't notice any sharp edges and clipped them all again without incident. Also the rope seems to not run over any unusually sharp rock features. I want to throw this info out there just in case there is something on this route that could cause more rope damage in the future.