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Lords of Karma 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John "JC" Collins March 1991
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on May 19, 2014

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Entering the crux on lords of karma

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This stunning sport line climbs a water streak on widely varying terrain. It's almost as if someone took a stunning, old school line from Ceüse or Verdon and plonked it on the Backside. This is a stout line, and it will test your head, stamina, and footwork.

After climbing one of more sandbagged 5.10's in Smith, tricky crimping leads to arete where a rest can be found. A tricky clip and some intense pulling on side pulls and pockets leads to a dash to the next clipping stance. Rest here and get psyched, if you screw up the sequence pulling on to the slab you'll be clocking some air time! After a much needed respite, the final two bolts tackle a physical overhang on good holds.


Above Hemp Liberation


13 bolts. Long sling on the 4th, you shouldn't need to unclip the bolt above the roof as the book says.

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By Jon Rhoderick
May 19, 2014

Take the grade with a grain of salt. Probably harder than Churning or Kings, easier than Go Dog Go. 12c at Smith means different things to different people.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
May 23, 2014

So, Jon, what you're saying is that Go Dog is harder than Churning or Kings? Hmmm...
By Chuck Becker
From: Portland, OR
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Sept. 19 2015 I discovered a core-shot in my rope after a burn on this route, during which I took a couple falls. It was an older rope and getting pretty worn anyway so I'm not entirely sure it was caused by something particular to this route. The next time I got on it I was more leery of the gear and felt the basket of all the fixed draws before I clipped them and didn't notice any sharp edges and clipped them all again without incident. Also the rope seems to not run over any unusually sharp rock features. I want to throw this info out there just in case there is something on this route that could cause more rope damage in the future.

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