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(7) Marsupial Wall
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Lords of Dogtown 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Collins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: Alan Collins on Nov 7, 2014

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Michelle working up the opening dihedral on Lords ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This unbelievable feature offers great crack and dihedral climbing capped by a pumpy overhang on big features. Climb through the first 4 bolts stemming in a 3 sided dihedral and then pull a 3 foot roof onto another dihedral (the crux). Finish on 5.11+ moves on pumpy big features for the last 3 bolts. Going to the anchors is quite exciting while trying to deal with the pump. A top rope can easily be set up off the bucket list.

Location 

Left of bucket list and off the same anchors.

Protection 

8 bolts total. Last 3 are currently fixed and soon the whole route will be. For now, extend the 4th bolt with a sling to avoid rope drag. Slinging the 1st and 2nd will reduce significant rope drag as well do to the 3 dimensional nature of the climb.


Photos of Lords of Dogtown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left: Lord of Dogtown 5.12+ Right: Bucket List 5.1...
Left: Lord of Dogtown 5.12+ Right: Bucket List 5.1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Redpoint crux, mantling to the clipping jug
Redpoint crux, mantling to the clipping jug
Rock Climbing Photo: Redpoint crux
Redpoint crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux
Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the crux
Getting into the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting into the crux
Setting into the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Moosh working out beta on Lords of Dogtown
Moosh working out beta on Lords of Dogtown
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to ditch the crux on Lords of Dogtown
Trying to ditch the crux on Lords of Dogtown
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming up the 3 sided dihedral on Lords of Dogto...
Stemming up the 3 sided dihedral on Lords of Dogto...

Comments on Lords of Dogtown Add Comment
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By Alan Collins
From: Bend, OR
Apr 4, 2016

I threw another lap on this route a few days ago. It truly is an unbelievable line, climbs more like blocky limestone than your standard smith climbing. Compiling all your crack climbing and stemming skills will be necessary to make it threw the crux on this one. The lower dihedral is a little dusty but its the easy part of the route, nothing but traffic will clean it up. Everything past the roof is very solid and not crumbly at all.
By Jon Rhoderick
Jul 19, 2016

A really great line, the best I've tried up at the Marisupial Wall, but for how long? The crux on this climb is completely different from any other 12+ at Smith, it has a lot more to do with how imaginative you are then how strong you are. Definitely something that will appeal to trad climbers, gorge climbers, or anyone just looking for something new.
By Chris Hatzai
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 15, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is by far one of the best and most unique climbs at Smith. Completely three dimensional thuggy climbing on pretty big holds. Definitely feels more like a trad climb than a sport climb. As Jon mentioned, the more creative you are through the crux sections, the better off you are. Ive seen the crux of this route climbed 3 different ways so far..
Hop on and try this route, it's amazing.

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