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Lord Voldemort 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Brad Nelson
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: ChrisHau on May 10, 2017

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Examining the wetness on Lord Voldemort. Strange s...

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Description 

A beautiful route that is only overshadowed because it's a variation to an even more beautiful route.

Jaunt up the intro and dihedral crux of Proper Soul (14a), with the bad feet and slopey, powerful movement that characterize that section.

Climb into the shared rest, but instead of clipping the long draw for the traverse crux on Proper, hang a hard left to a clip at the base of the vertical, gleaming white billboard. Perform a tenuous and condition-dependent face crux on jagged crimps, culminating in a long reach to a sloper (it seems prudent to skip the clip in the middle of the face, which would lead to a long but safe fall). Do one more precision reach to get established in an undercling.

Relax as you move through two more bolts of easier climbing, trending left into an often-wet streak before coming back into the line at a monstrous flake jug. Engage in the proverbial shake-until-your-belayer-is-asleep rest, and then execute the heartbreaker crux - long reaches on steep stone between slot edges, and then a dyno to the very top of the cliff.

Location 

Shares the obvious dihedral of Proper Soul (14a) on the left end of the Cirque. Branches left after the dihedral through the white face.

Protection 

Bolts with Mammut square-cut hangers, fixed gear.


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