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20 Kilos of Steel S 
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Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 
Fit To Be Thai'd S 
Getting to Know You S 
Inaka (The Country) S 
King, The S 
Live and Let Thai S 
Lord of the Thai's S 
Mala Mujer S 
Monkey Love S 
Orange Juice S 
Organ Grinder S 
Out of Sticks S 
Primal Scream S 
Sluggard Prince, The S 
Solution 41 S 
Spicy Speck Dreams S 
Taming the East S 

Lord of the Thai's 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers
New Route: Yes
Season: dry
Page Views: 9,875
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Photo taken by Bobby Model. This is the last pitch...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.

P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)

P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)

P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)

P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)

From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)


Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand


A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.

Photos of Lord of the Thai's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the big 3rd pitch
the big 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: the 2rd pitch
the 2rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: the 3rd pitch
the 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 12b pitch
12b pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: the long view .in the 3rd
the long view .in the 3rd
Rock Climbing Photo: on the 2rd
on the 2rd
Rock Climbing Photo: the 1rd pitch
the 1rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the top rappel circa 1994.
Starting the top rappel circa 1994.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the second pitch on Lord of the ...
Looking down from the second pitch on Lord of the ...

Comments on Lord of the Thai's Add Comment
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By Matt Robertson
Feb 28, 2007

The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.

In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack.
By sooba
Aug 18, 2007

One of the all-time best routes ... also the last route I ever did. I climbed hard for 21 yrs, then onsighted it in 2002 and never climbed again. Go figure. Bobby Model rocks too.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007

I believe that the first pitch shares or is the same as the first pitch of "circus oz". If there are crowds or you're just flat not good enough to do all 5 pitches & top out (like uzz) you can rap from the first station.
By alabama slamma
Dec 10, 2008

the 7a+ pitch is one of best in Thailand. 7b pitch feels hard, but the exposure is out of this world. Railay must do!!
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 27, 2010

Circus Oz is independant but right next to it. Great route as well. Slightly easier, maybe 11+.
By Matt Pickren
Nov 12, 2010

Last 2 pitches can also easily be combined.

Amazing route! This is the type of climbing you dream of. The confident .11 climber should not be intimidated, short, WELL protected cruxes. Sam has a thing for perfectly placed bolts. GO GET ON IT!
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Feb 26, 2017

Did the first three pitches, and we were able to get down with a 60m, though with some shenanigans (not straightforward).

Pitches 2 and 3 are awesome, and seemed of similar difficulty to me and my partner. Enjoy the unreal views!

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