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Unsorted Routes:

Lord of the Rings 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Kennedy, Joan Bertini
Page Views: 3,767
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Feb 4, 2006  with updates from tom donnelly

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Lord of the Rings (5.10c)

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Climb past two bolts to a ledge, transition onto the face and continue up past two more bolts to a rappel station.


Four (4) bolt protection. Bolt anchor.

GPS Location 

+32.82472, -117.05051

Comments on Lord of the Rings Add Comment
Show which comments
By david baker
From: jamul, ca
Feb 9, 2006

This climb is some of the best rock in Mission Gorge. The crux is rocking on to your left foot at the transition from the finger crack onto the face. This climb is located 10 feet to the left of Art the Pissant a.k.a. unknown number 3. See my comments on this climb for directions. Lord of the rings is also shown in some guide books as (unknown # 4).
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nasty fall potential if you miss the 3rd clip. Short folks who don't want to commit to the face before clipping may want to place an extended piece in the finger crack to the right before moving out. This said, the climb is excellent! Have fun.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Jul 14, 2011

Establishing oneself on the upper face is Very difficult. I am very glad I chose not to lead this one.
By Indira Lower
Nov 1, 2011

I DID fall, AT THE THIRD bolt. I was shoulder-to-bolt, stepped my left foot over and DOWN I went. It's a he'll of a fall. I didn't even think of placing. That's a great idea. I'm taking a #2 and 3 nut next time!
By Joan Bertini
Jul 14, 2012

Joan Bertini was the first FA on this route and it was always meant to be a mixed climb, like most of the routs at MG.
By Kenny.Haley
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route is amazing! Hard featured moves but i felt safe the entire time. I don't see much of a fall hazard here as some have said. This is a must climb!
By saltlick
Jul 15, 2013

Stay out of the finger crack to the right of the bolts for a more sustained climb - as a bonus, I actually found it easier to make the transition to the upper face when approaching from below, rather than from the pod on the right. A stout, enjoyable climb.
By Robert Karl
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 1, 2016

Thanks for adding the GPS coords
By Mackenan Grassi
Feb 13, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a full value climb for being so short. Very sustained and fun movement the whole way up.

I second saltlick on the recommendation for staying out of the finger crack. It's much safer and less awkward to approach the third bolt from directly below.

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