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Lord of the Rings 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1996
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 15, 2001

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  • Description 

    Lord of the Rings is the third route off the ramp on the East face and the furthest right. The rock to start is decidedly in need of heavy duty brushing but the climbing on Lord of the Rings just gets better and better with each move up the route. A very interesting sequence takes you up to the roof and swings wide to the right on jugs, stepping back left once over the route. This route was a kick, and it would certainly see more traffic if it was on the other side of Highlander. The climbing is much steeper than it might appear.


    Bring 9 or 10 draws, a 50m rope, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

    Comments on Lord of the Rings Add Comment
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    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 5, 2002

    Definitely loose rock, weird moves, especially that one over the roof. Needs a lot of cleaning to earn 2 stars.
    By clint dillard
    From: Louisville, Co
    Jan 15, 2006

    This route has cleaned up a bit, but still be heads up for rock around the route. As the guidebook says, "it's better than it looks." Like the rest of the 5.10s in this area and noted above, it is soft for its grade. If you're wanting to climb the route this time of year, get on it early because it loses sun mid morning. The 3rd/4th (5th for some) class traverse kind of sucks with packs on, so you may want to rack up before you make the step across.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 1, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    Definitely better than it looks, and definitely better as you get high.

    The roof is absolutely one of the singular joys of the entire canyon, worth scrubbing up all the mankey choss just to work out the moves--which, not by the way, aren't the crux of the climb once you get the sequence down. On the whole, I think it's only a 10a or possibly b for shorter climbers.

    A great alternative once the traffic thickens over on the south-facing side....
    By Joshua1979
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Mar 16, 2013

    Climbs better than it looks. Give it a shot.
    By Michael Underwood
    From: Denver, CO
    Jan 27, 2016
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This route is definitely cleaner now than some of the previous posts seem to imply. I'm not saying you should neglect your helmet or anything, but I thought the moves and the holds were pretty solid and definitely fun. It's a good warm-up under any circumstances, but especially when the south side of the crag is a little bit busy.

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