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Glass Ocean and Environs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fish Called Wanda T 
Atlantis T,TR 
Delta Y S,TR 
Get the Net T 
Glass Ocean S 
High Dive T 
Hydroplane T 
Left Tributary S 
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 
Northwest Passage T,TR 
Open Water T 
Pane, The S 
Right Tributary T 
Sail Away S 
Seam, The T 
Thar She Blows T 
Troubled Seas T 
Tsunami S 

Lord of the Long Arms 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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On the south end of Glass ocean are 3 routes with bolts. This is the middle one. It climbs a smooth edgy face to a ledge and continues up a nice but easy crack.


Slings (Lg) around a horn and a couple extra pieces for a backup.2 draws for the lead plus a small selection of gear for the upper crack.

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By Nathan Fisher
Jul 13, 2004

I climbed this route again today, and there is a right-facing crack that angles right. This can be climbed and isn't much harder than a 5.7. It adds a nice finish to a pleasant climb.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route! Must do if your up there. The upper section protects well with small to med. cams.
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Oct 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This makes a good first pitch to High Dive as well, though it is a bit short.
By tenesmus
Jun 3, 2007

only good if you use it as an approach to the High Dive. Even then its not all that great. If you're there to do the High Dive then you might as well do Tsunami.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 25, 2007

Definitely the best start to High Dive and a good climb on its own.
By John Steiger
Jul 14, 2013

All the routes on this little slab are quarter-inch buttonheads. They look to be in good shape, but....
By Gary Taylor
Jul 17, 2013

For what it's worth, the old bolts are 5/16 inch buttonheads. That makes them the same diameter as the bolt in a 3/8 inch 5 piece rawl so they have essentially the same shear strength. They are longer than a 1/4 inch buttonhead (1.5 vs. 1 inch) although shorter than the 5 piece rawls (2 to 3 inches). In rock as hard as quartzite they seem to maintain excellent pull-out strength. All this being said they are still 25 years old, so ...
By John Steiger
Jul 17, 2013

That's great info Gary -- you need to post up more. I didn't see any rust, so I think these are good to go for awhile (but they are all SMC hangers, so at some point, replacing them would be a good public service). Hope you didn't think my post was a criticism. I have placed my share of split shaft buttonheads with SMC hangers (worse, a number were the shorty 1/4 inchers with homemade bedframe hangers) -- now also decades old; spooky!
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 10, 2014

This is damn good. If it were by the road it would be a fave.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 19, 2014

Will second the opinion that it's actually a good climb. Good holds hide on quartzite! I used a #1 and a black alien to protect the upper section, although you really have many options.

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