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Lord of the Flies 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brandon Oss
Page Views: 1,225
Submitted By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Route pic.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A [70m] rope is a must, barely getting you back to the ground. Fun, varied climbing starting at the right-facing corner, finishing on the steep orange horn. In the summer, the flies can be bad in this gully.

Location 

This is located at the top of the gully, left of the main wall.

Protection 

15 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Eds. bring 2 ropes or a 70m rope.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The rope is hanging from the anchors on Lord of th...
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was fun but very easy for 10c. The crux, which according the guidebook is at the top, felt like 9. Very straighforward with good feet and hands leading to the crack that leads to the anchors. The crux for me was about midway where after hand traversing left you end up balanced in a left-facing corner. Getting back right out of that corner was a bit dicey.
By ErikaNW
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2011

The description says a 60m will get you to the ground, but we were just barely to the ground with our 70m. Good idea to knot your ends on this one.
By SammyJ
From: Colorado springs
May 15, 2017

Careful of the giant flake 1/3 the way up on the right. I'm sure the guys took care in trying to trundle this one off when bolting the line, but it seems very hollow and detached now. Don't be a hero, and try to avoid it either by climbing the .12 face to the left with the ledge below. Just yard on draws and be safe. Otherwise this is a nice route.

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