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Cat from Outer Space S,TR 
Crack'n the Code T 
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 
Freedom Fighter S 
Frogs in Space T,S 
Gotta Keep Dancin T 
Jeopardy T 
Laus Deo S 
Lord of the Dance T 
Pinhead T,S 
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Lord of the Dance 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004
Page Views: 1,531
Submitted By: Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Lord of the Dance from the belay led...

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>


This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall. 3 pitches get you to the Top, great exposure.

P1: 5.7 60' 5 Bolts; Start on the belay ledge heading up on good holds staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor.
P2: 5.10a 40' 4 Bolts; Starts off on great holds on the left going up and traversing right. The crux comes at the second bolt and well protected. Do some blocky climbing up to the anchor.
P3: 5.8 80' 5 Bolts; Great pitch, starting up some hollow flakes with good holds. Leading up to a large crack under an overhang that almost feels like chimney in some parts. Goes up and left, clip the fixed Hex, and step onto the face. another 15' to the anchor.

Descent: One double rope rappel or 2 Single Rope Rappels


Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.


Pro to 2"
Bolted Anchors with Chains
Fixed Hex on P3
60m Rope.

Photos of Lord of the Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Maxwell making the transition from the crack ...
Adam Maxwell making the transition from the crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben at Pitch 1 anchors
Ben at Pitch 1 anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben getting up to the anchors of P3
Ben getting up to the anchors of P3

Comments on Lord of the Dance Add Comment
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By Tess Wendel
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2017

First pitch is fun, definitely steeper climbing than other 5.7s, I actually placed a .75 inbetween last bolt and anchor chains because the fall wouldn't be fun if you messed up mantling onto the belay ledge. We pulled off a crimp hold on pitch 2- rock quality leaves something to be desired. Hopefully a couple more don't fall off otherwise "10a" is quickly going to become a lot harder. Top pitch has some good jugs and is fun climbing but gear is not straightforward so wouldn't necessarily recommend for beginner trad lead.

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