Lord of the Dance
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Lord of the Dance from the belay led...
This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall. 3 pitches get you to the Top, great exposure.
P1: 5.7 60' 5 Bolts; Start on the belay ledge heading up on good holds staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor.
P2: 5.10a 40' 4 Bolts; Starts off on great holds on the left going up and traversing right. The crux comes at the second bolt and well protected. Do some blocky climbing up to the anchor.
P3: 5.8 80' 5 Bolts; Great pitch, starting up some hollow flakes with good holds. Leading up to a large crack under an overhang that almost feels like chimney in some parts. Goes up and left, clip the fixed Hex, and step onto the face. another 15' to the anchor.
Descent: One double rope rappel or 2 Single Rope Rappels
Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.
Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.
Pro to 2"
Bolted Anchors with Chains
Fixed Hex on P3
Adam Maxwell making the transition from the crack ...
Ben getting up to the anchors of P3