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Lord Humongous 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Huebner, Darren Singer
Page Views: 2,418
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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"And you will know my name is The Lord, when I lay my vengeance upon thee! " This striking finger splitter to hands/fist crack has some classic jamming and is on the easier side of 5.11. Another striking all natural gear line.

Just to the right of Black and Tan. Work your way up to the splitter by either climbing the start of Black and Tan, or you can opt for the more direct start which is a bit headier. Whichever way you start get to the splitter finger crack which winds it's way up the left side of the column past good jams, and a few lovely jugs. Hand/fist crack takes you to the top of the pillar, and a rest before the final bouldery section to meet up at the Black and Tan anchors.


Right Side.


Doubles up to a #3 camalot. Save some hand sized pieces for the top.

Photos of Lord Humongous Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith B. styling Lord Humongous, again.
Keith B. styling Lord Humongous, again.
Rock Climbing Photo:  Austin  flashes Lord Humongous
Austin flashes Lord Humongous
Rock Climbing Photo: JMo
Rock Climbing Photo: past the crux and into the wide
past the crux and into the wide
Rock Climbing Photo: A slightly different view...
A slightly different view...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lord awaits you...  Pretty classic.  Black and...
The Lord awaits you... Pretty classic. Black and...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess L. making her way towards Lord Humungous.
Jess L. making her way towards Lord Humungous.

Comments on Lord Humongous Add Comment
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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I struggled a bit at the crux, then just when you need it a perfect hold appears to ease things up a bit.
By Darren Singer
From: Portland, OR
May 15, 2010

FA of this route done by Jeff Huebner and followed by Darren Singer. Done shortly after FA of Black & Tan. For those interested, the extra pair of bolt holes near the top are remnant of earlier anchor - the crack on top section of these routes was impassible as it was filled with razor rock debris that I couldn't get out until returning later with the trusty crowbar.
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 27, 2013

Really fun! When it starts to get hard just look for a jug, they're there.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 4, 2016

Direct start offers a more quality option to reach the splitter. There is a bit of loose stuff here and there that is easily avoided and it's mostly very solid. Doesn't look like much from below but turns out to be great technical face climbing with solid gear that appears when you need it. 10+? 11-? Takes RP's, nuts, cams from 00c3 to yellow alien. It looks spicy but numerous holds and placements keep appearing as you go.
By Matt Enlow
From: Wyoming
Apr 17, 2017

The direct is definitely the better way to do the route. Much more fun.

Just take your time (and micros)

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