REI Community
Olmsted Canyon Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age of Darkness T 
Air-Cooled Unit T 
Body-Double TR 
Cash Register T 
Easy Money T,TR 
Enemy Within T 
Fingers In The Till T 
Grease Monkey T 
Hot Box T,TR 
Ivory Tower, Center T 
Ivory Tower, Left T 
Lock of Ages T 
Lord Caffeine T 
Miss Apprehension T 
Missle Toe T,TR 
Short Change T 
Talk Dirty to Me T 
Techno-Pig T 
Thrill Is Gone, The T 
Tideline T 
Tits On A Bull T,TR 

Lord Caffeine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Urmas and Becky Franosch, Bruce Morris
Page Views: 3,926
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Lord Merlot? Jose gives Mauricio the Two-buck Chuc...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A fine awkward and flaring right leaning crack climb. Depending on your strengths and weaknesses, you may find a different crux than your friends. I find all sections hard! Pants and long sleeves recommended.


Left end of the Tideline area in Olmstead. Look for the obvious right-leaning splitter in a section of black rock.


From fingers up to a #4 camalot.

Photos of Lord Caffeine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Maciek on Lord Caffeine
Maciek on Lord Caffeine
Rock Climbing Photo: Line of Lord Caffeine (5.10d), Olmsted Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Line of Lord Caffeine (5.10d), Olmsted Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Lord Caffeine
Lord Caffeine
Rock Climbing Photo: "Lord Caffeine" (5.10d)
"Lord Caffeine" (5.10d)
Rock Climbing Photo: Lord Caffeine
BETA PHOTO: Lord Caffeine
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott on Lord Caffeine
Scott on Lord Caffeine

Comments on Lord Caffeine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Aug 24, 2009

One of my favorites. Mix of fingerlocks, heel -toes, tip layback and chicken wings.
Consists of 5 different parts.

First part is basically insecure face climb until you enter into wide section
Second part left side in short ow -10ft
Third exiting from wide part and relatively good fingers for average hands until you get good handjam rest just under the crux. This section can be hard for small fingers.
Forth : the crux of the route - two powerful moves very thin - tip layback until you get good fingerlock
Fifth : exit as chimney with chicken wings

This route take offset nuts very well. Took me 3 times until redpont. At first it was feeling that Lord Caffein is harder than Tideline, but not anymore
By Bob Rotert
Aug 9, 2010

Sweet route, felt like a SANDBAG to me! Take some caffine and have fun!!
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 14, 2010

The fingers crux, IMHO, is 5.11-...everything else is solid 5.10.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Sep 10, 2012

I thought I heard something about how the first ascentionists wanted to rate this thing .11b. Then Bachar did it and told them it wouldn't be rated any harder than .10d in the Valley.... and that's the grade that stuck.

Might not be true, but it's kind of funny and I heard it from a couple of Bachar's pals when I lived out there.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Aug 5, 2014

Could most deffinetely use a #4 or #5 in the big offwidth pod thing. The beginning takes nuts really well. The top finger sized cams. This climb made me feel and look like a bitch. My confidence is still slightly tender
By mpech
Jun 22, 2015

amazing physical climb. This climb belongs more at Arch rock than tuolemne! Sandbagged at 10d...
gear beta: nuts, green alien to #4.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The suffering was real on this climb, thought I was going to throw up by the time I hit the top. A sandbag. But, it is doable.
By david s wilson
Aug 14, 2016

This is such a great 11b. A must do

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About