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Loosy Goosy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Loosy Goosy(yellow)

Description 

A surprisingly nice line, with sustained climbing and exposure similar to the more well-known Comfortably Numb. The name implies loose rock, but I only found one unstable block just above the ledge.

Start as with Pin Chimney; boulder your way out of the little cave and up to the ledge. Continue straight up through a roof with a big crack (going slightly right of the crack is the path of least resistance). Continue up the steep face past nice jugs and a section of Gunks-like horizontals to finish through a crack at the top.

Location 

Shares start with Pin Chimney. The easiest descent option is to top out and walk across the top to the anchors for Standard Route and rap from there.

Protection 

Mostly small to medium gear; some opportunities for slinging horns. Bolted anchors on top of the pinnacle.


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By gus
From: Alabama
Sep 10, 2008

great way to do this line is do start of Pin Chimney Direct and then finish on Loosey Goosey.
By Buick Mackane
From: Alpharetta,GA
Feb 7, 2011

Rock Climbing Photo: Loosy Goosy  5.9  Location UTM 16s 0608971  378269...
Loosy Goosy 5.9
Location UTM 16s 0608971 3782690
lat 34.9494 lon -85.817532
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Jun 7, 2011

Great route
By Mattisadude
Jan 29, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of my favorite easy/moderates at Sandrock. Best rock quality in the park - solid conglomerate gives way to bullet-hard white quartzite with excellent protection. Super safe! Great exposure, pure line, mostly 5.7 until 6 feet from the top where it probably is 5.8+ (maybe 9) for two moves, but very well protected. Three large bolts at the top with large but rusted hangers.

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