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Loosey Goosey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: T.Bubb, J. Haas, 10/06
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 17, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Loosey Goosey (5.9, X) goes up the blocks and crac...

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  • Description 

    This route is likely the worst route on the Goose. It looked OK from the ground, but it was pretty bad. The moves are fun, but unless you enjoy the contemplative process of calculating the objective risk of protecting bad rock while climbing on bad rock versus your odds of survival, there are better routes to be had.

    If that has not discouraged you...
    Locate the route on the Goose known as the South Face. This begins with a huge left-facing corner full of cracks and chock-stones... perhaps 15 meters to the right of this there lies a series of roofs starting not far off the ground and progressing for perhaps 50 feet to a shallow right-facing corner. Climb up these (5.9, X) on questionable rock and mostly bad protection to reach the corner, then up the corner (5.9, X) to a dished face. Set good gear (#3 Camalot) behind a good thick flake, then climb up the face (5.8, R) to a clean but unprotected slab. Climb the slab for 18 meters (unprotectable 5.4) to reach a summit on this protruding buttress and belay in a deep dish, with a few solid 2-3" cams. Total 130'.

    To descend, scramble North toward the main rock, crossing a gap in the corner (5.6) and then up past a crack (5.6, protectable on hand-sized cams) and up 40 feet past the corner to a 2-bolt fixed anchor with rings up and left. Rap 95' to the ground.


    This route lies on the southward-protruding buttress on the South face of the Goose, just right (East) of the big dihedral of the East Face.


    A standard light rack including some ultra-thin cams and brass nuts. Ball nuts would have been a plus in a few spots.

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