Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Loosening the Lid Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Squeeze, The 
Canned Heat 
Loosening the Lid 

Loosening the Lid 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Jul 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Check NPS for Closures


"Loosening the Lid" is a burly sit-start problem on the Southern side of the "Loosening the Lid" Boulder. Start with a right hand on a good ledge, left under the arete and use a heel hook somewhere in there, then move up decent holds and work out to the arete. The landing is excellent, but slightly sloped.


Pad and a Spotter

Photos of Loosening the Lid Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay on the first and move of an easier variation.
Jay on the first and move of an easier variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Loosening the Lid" Problem on the S...
BETA PHOTO: The "Loosening the Lid" Problem on the S...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Loosening the Lid" Boulder is locat...
BETA PHOTO: The "Loosening the Lid" Boulder is locat...

Comments on Loosening the Lid Add Comment
Show which comments
By jamison coin
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Feb 13, 2013

It looks like everyone is bailing out right after the first move which is like a v2 variation I think Loosening The Lid's beta is to match the second hold and throw out left to a hold on the arete and finish on bad holds (crux) or better yet after matching the second hold go left even more so your right hand is on the arete and your left hand is way out left on a slick crystal edge for The Big Squeeze.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Feb 14, 2013

Yo Jamie if you are referring to our photos, yeah we had no idea what problem this was when we saw the boulder, it just looked kinda fun. We thought it was maybe V3 coming out from under the roof and climbing up the face. This seemed like the most logical line -- the "original line" seems a contrivance at best. Cool boulder though. Thanks for the beta, maybe next time...