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Spring Crag
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Bandwagon, The S 
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Loose Nut 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Tristan Burnham on Jun 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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The route tends to wander just a bit and is over v...


The right most route on the south face. The whole route is slightly over hanging and really pumpy but all the holds are there.


The furthest right route. You can TR this by going to the top (Kinda sketchy).


5 bolts to anchors with carabiners for easy lower off.

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By Tristan Burnham
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 14, 2010

This route feels a lot harder than Bandwagon 5.10b. I'd say this is more like a 10d.
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I agree w/ Tristan. I did Wus Pus which is 11a at Tunnel Crags one week ago and that route felt easier than this one. Maybe a hold broke off after the FA...?
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Tristan is right on, I did a tr on it, when in the sun, slippery holds for sure. When TRing its best to clip the 2nd bolt to keep one from slamming into the ground behind you.

I was told that the FA and the rating comes from Tom Guilge (sp?) an uber strong dude for sure.

Best in the morning shade
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

FA: Tom Gilje, Sam Owings, Jay Coughlin, Steve Edwards, and Jack Marshall (according to Troy Mahr).
ps......the rating is 5.11a according to the Williamson Rock guide (Troy Mahr & Anthony Sweeney).

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