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Loose Bolt Slab 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Ken & Marsha Trout, 2013
Season: summer
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Mar 14, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Traversing out to the first bolt.

Description 

Scramble up to a grassy ledge with a single loose, but usable, bolt. Handy for keeping packs and climbers from slipping of the ledge.

From the belay, move right into an easy corner and solo up 20 feet to a ledge. From the ledge, make an unprotected move left onto the face to reach the first pro in a horizontal crack (small cam). Move left along the seam to even bigger, better pro.

Once this gear is in, it is possible to back-clean the first piece or two. The crux is near the end of the pitch, that's why the back-clean hassle is worth the trouble.

From the last good gear in the horizontal seam, move up to the first protection bolt, 30 or 40 feet above the loose bolt. The second bolt is just above, after which a long runout is done up right to a grassy ledge and bolt #3.

Four or five more bolts protect some thin crumbly/cruxy moves. A small/medium cam helps protect the run out to the anchors (40 meters).

Location 

See the photo.

Protection 

A half-dozen cams from small to medium.


Photos of Loose Bolt Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marsha at the stance for the reaching the first Al...
BETA PHOTO: Marsha at the stance for the reaching the first Al...
Rock Climbing Photo: The panel above the grassy ledges is the hard stuf...
The panel above the grassy ledges is the hard stuf...
Rock Climbing Photo: Loose Bolt Slab.  (Green dot on photo, partly hidd...
BETA PHOTO: Loose Bolt Slab. (Green dot on photo, partly hidd...

Comments on Loose Bolt Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg D
From: Here
Sep 4, 2014

There is a much better start than described above. Start about six feet right of the loose bolt and find the path of least resistance to the horn 20 feet directly above the loose bolt at the base. Then find the path of least resistance to the first bolt. There is good gear that is not visible from the ground. Maybe PG-13 once you find your first piece. Use long slings and enjoy.

Also, skip the bolt on the easy grassy terrain. Instead place a bomber 0.5 Camalot 8 feet or so to the left. This bolt is completely unnecessary and may add to drag. Rope drag was not an issue whatsoever.

Rap with a 60m to the grassy ledge to climbers right and do easy downclimbing to base.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 17, 2016

The unnecessary bolt was put there to keep climbers from trampling the tundra while looking for gear placements.

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