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Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Joe Kinder
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Feb 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Sticking the big throw on Loomit.


This problem climbs out the roof on the left-hand side of the Pound Crack boulder. Start sitting with some funky pockety holds and make a powerful throw to the sloping rail (the kicker to the left is off-route, apparently). Use ingenious footwork and a lot of body tension to traverse right on the sloping rail until you can make a desperate throw to a decent hold. Keep your feet on or you'll be laying on the large flat rock that's now just below you. Make a couple more powerful, but easier moves on good holds to come around the corner and onto the face. For full value, proceed up the dirty 5.11 on the arete on which you are now established and top out. A good problem to work on in the winter, when the low sun beams in and the friction is good. Would be a classic in my book but for the eliminate start and the butt-dragging nature of the last couple of hard moves.


If you are facing the Pound crack, turn left and follow the trail over the stone wall, then look right. Loomit is the climb in the roof that uses the obvious chalked sloping rail.


pads and a spot.

Photos of Loomit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Very committing topout moves. Falling from here is...
Very committing topout moves. Falling from here is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike sticking the throw
Mike sticking the throw
Rock Climbing Photo: Toe hooks and heel hooks everywhere!
Toe hooks and heel hooks everywhere!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike setting up for the throw
Mike setting up for the throw

Comments on Loomit Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 5, 2011

So the boulder that is to the left is off?Seems a bit contrived, the boulder is very obvious and seems impractical to try to avoid...
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Sep 22, 2016
rating: V10 7C+

So much beta packed into one climb. Amazing. Really hope more people get on this. It's certainly one of the best V10's I've ever done. Footage of this climb starts at 1:25

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