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Lookout Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Burcham
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Derek Field on Apr 25, 2017

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Lookout Chimney topo.

Description 

The obvious gaping chimney on the southwest side of Lookout Tower is the original line to this spectacular summit. I don't know the historical details other than the fact it's a Burcham route.

Getting into the chimney itself is a shitty boulder problem in a chossy flare. Then there is a long stretch of 4th-class gully filled with tons of little stones wanting to free themselves and bonk your belayer on the brain. Eventually you enter the vertical part of the chimney and discover a splitter fist-offwidth crack on the inner left wall. Tunnel behind a huge chockstone and resume 4th-class gully slogging. Now comes the best part! Layback or jam a tight handcrack thru bomber rock in the back left corner. (There are alternate cracks to finish on, but this is the easiest and most graceful). Step across the chimney to the main wall and continue up easy slabs to Burcham's two-bolt chain anchor.

Rappel from chains. A 70m rope will barely make it; a 60m will need to use the intermediate station halfway down.

Location 

Obvious chimney on the southwest side of Lookout Tower.

Protection 

Singles from .3 to 5 (new BD sizes)
Chimney tactic: The lighter you go, the more enjoyable it will be. Also, the fewer pieces you place, the less rope-drag you'll be fighting at the top. You only really need 6 or 7 cams for this route.


Photos of Lookout Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Giselle jamming the tight handcrack at the top of ...
Giselle jamming the tight handcrack at the top of ...

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