Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Looking to purchase aggressive shoes but I don't know what kind.
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 19, 2015
So I've been climbing for a year now and since I began I have used 5.10 rogue since I began. I climb between 5.10a and 11a indoors and beginning to challenge myself more (don't we all challenge ourselves anyways?). I want to go to a more aggressive shoe now that I'm making progress and all. What is a good shoe to graduate to next? I've been looking at La Sportivas and the place I climb (earth treks!) has the company coming in for a demo day in a few weeks.

Any feedback is helpful! Thanks!
Phil Lipton
Joined Sep 25, 2015
0 points
Oct 19, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Spur
Try the miura, solutions, and testarossa.

I own the solution, very pleased, really comfortable on overhang and nubs. The miura is a more comfortable version of that with the arch support and less rubber on the knuckle. The testarossa, well I can't say much about them. I wore them for maybe 30 mins and was really uncomfortable.

Not sure what kind of climbing you're into though, you may want some mythos
sean.haynes
Joined Aug 1, 2015
99 points
Oct 20, 2015
Check out both the Katana and Katana Lace. They are in many ways different.
Above all else, go with a shoe that fit well and your feet are comfortable in, or at least semi comfortable in.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
563 points
Oct 20, 2015
sean.haynes wrote:
Try the miura, solutions, and testarossa. I own the solution, very pleased, really comfortable on overhang and nubs. The miura is a more comfortable version of that with the arch support and less rubber on the knuckle. The testarossa, well I can't say much about them. I wore them for maybe 30 mins and was really uncomfortable. Not sure what kind of climbing you're into though, you may want some mythos


I do a lot of lead climbing and a little bouldering. Mainly indoors right now but I have started to go outside to a few spots when I have been able to go.
Phil Lipton
Joined Sep 25, 2015
0 points
Oct 20, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
Agressive shoes or better shoes? Unless you do 90% overhangs or bouldering you are better off with a more classic shoe aka Muira, Anasazie etc ... like i said, depends on your climbing, I see to many new climbers jump into crazy downturned shoes and do 90% of their climbing on 5.6 slabs ... Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Oct 20, 2015
Theriault wrote:
I see to many new climbers jump into crazy downturned shoes and do 90% of their climbing on 5.6 slabs ...

LOL. And unfortunately somewhat true. A first for me just the other day, thick socks with Blackwing, climbing low angle blocky stuff.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
563 points
Oct 20, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Slashface goodness taken by RTM
I would just stick with a nicer all around shoe for now. Anasazis are awesome, Galileo's are one of my favorites, and the new Vapor V's are great and they perform at a high level.

It really comes down to finding something that fits your foot. Go try on a bunch of shoes and try to find the "one".
Mike Brady
From Van Diesel, OR
Joined Jul 14, 2014
692 points
Oct 20, 2015
between anasazi VCS (i love it in granit) and testarossa or miura (i hate it everywhere), there is scarpa vapor. i use it in long limestone routes in the 10's range. It is acceptable for a full day (if ended by a cold foot bath!!!) pierref
Joined Jun 5, 2015
0 points
Oct 20, 2015
The Miura was my first "real" shoe, and I've always had a pair since. They have a good blend of performance and comfort, and because they don't have parts that break or wear out (Solution straps, VS velcro), they're burly enough for multiple resoles. Ondra climbed 5.15c in them, so they're certainly capable of handling whatever you throw at them.

Whatever you get, save your Rogues. Resole them when they wear need it, and use them as your comfort/warm-up shoe. It boggles my mind how many people use $175 shoes for an entire session. Having a cheap, comfortable pair of shoes for your warmups will save you a ton of money (and toe-disfigurement) over time.
Mark Paulson
Joined Sep 16, 2010
63 points
Oct 20, 2015
Phil Lipton wrote:
So I've been climbing for a year now and since I began I have used 5.10 rogue since I began. I climb between 5.10a and 11a indoors and beginning to challenge myself more (don't we all challenge ourselves anyways?). I want to go to a more aggressive shoe now that I'm making progress and all. What is a good shoe to graduate to next? I've been looking at La Sportivas and the place I climb (earth treks!) has the company coming in for a demo day in a few weeks. Any feedback is helpful! Thanks!

If your climb pretty much 90-100% in the gym, that means you won't do any slabs, then go 100% aggressive shoes like Miura VS, Solutions.
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
193 points
Oct 20, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile Pic
Get the Scarpa Booster S as a soft shoe.
The Instinct VS is is also a great, aggressive shoe that can be used for all kind of climbing, depending on how you size em.
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
308 points
Oct 20, 2015
Mark Paulson wrote:
The Miura was my first "real" shoe, and I've always had a pair since. They have a good blend of performance and comfort, and because they don't have parts that break or wear out. Whatever you get, save your Rogues. Resole them when they wear need it, and use them as your comfort/warm-up shoe. It boggles my mind how many people use $175 shoes for an entire session. Having a cheap, comfortable pair of shoes for your warmups will save you a ton of money (and toe-disfigurement) over time.

+1 on both.
As an extreme example, I climbed almost exclusively in my yellow Miura for 8 or 9 years, going through multiple resoles and rand repair jobs. I kept them around as an occasional, comfy shoe for another 6! I get less expansive shoes for the gym and resole them with C4 after they are worn. Thumbs up for the older Scarpa Vapor V. I bought a pair at a great price, somewhat comfy, but surprised myself how well they climb.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
563 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.