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Looking Glass 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011

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The Main Wall of Fresno Dome has a giant buttress sitting in the middle of it. Looking Glass is the impressive left-facing corner which is formed by the left side of this buttress. This route is essentially the mirror-image of Watership Down. It is best climbed in two pitches.

The pro on this climb is not very good, mostly due to to dirt filled cracks and occasionally loose rock. It's best suited for experienced 5.7 leaders.

P1. Starts out with easy scrambling and then alternate between crack climbing, chimneying, liebacking, and often just slab climbing the low angle face to the left of the corner. Belay in an alcove with a bunch of loose blocks. A 70m rope just barely makes it. You will have to break it up or simul-climb the easy start if you are using a 60m.

P2. Climb up the corner towards the roof. Face climb out to the lip and then lieback up the offwidth to the hand crack. I couldn't get any gear until this point and had to run it out a bit. There is a bolted face climb to the left of the corner, which you can join for its final 3 bolts. This provides a cleaner and more enjoyable finish to the mungy corner above, and also reduces rope drag.

From the top you can rap with 2 ropes, or finish on Rowsby Woof (5.8) which climbs out the obvious left-trending ramp beneath a giant roof. The final pitch of Rowsby Woof is well worth it.


Pro to 4"

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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Nov 1, 2011

This is a photo of the route

Rock Climbing Photo: South Pillar profile. Photo by Blitzo.
South Pillar profile.
Photo by Blitzo.

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