REI Community
search
Looking Glass Rock

Select Route:
Regular Route S 

Looking Glass Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.2754, -109.4052 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,229
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Tomlin on Aug 16, 2010  with updates from cstebbins024
Forecast:
This Afternoon

93° | 60°
Wednesday

94° | 60°
Thursday

87° | 57°
Friday

89° | 59°
Saturday

92° | 62°
Sunday

94° | 62°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
The rope swing at Looking Glass. March 2013

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Beautiful sandstone formation with a huge amphitheater and large window.

Getting There 

Take Highway 191 south of Moab for ~23-25 miles (<1 mile past La Sal Junction). You are looking for a gravel road on your right (west) signed as LOOKING GLASS ROAD (used to be called Hatch Wash road). Turn right and travel west 1.4 miles.
  • Option 1: (May not be passable depending on recent rains) Turn left onto a deep sand 'road' for 0.3 miles. Before a ranch fence, turn right and follow the 'road' to the base of Looking Glass. 10 second approach.
  • Option 2: Continue on the road and take a left just after passing Looking Glass rock. Park at the side of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Regular Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Looking Glass Rock

Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking glass rock - view of rap station from insi...

Regular Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Looking Glass Rock
AKA- East Rib: 3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid pano from the top. Weather was beautiful, bu...
Solid pano from the top. Weather was beautiful, bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: 4/20/16: Bull snakes at the start. At least on thi...
BETA PHOTO: 4/20/16: Bull snakes at the start. At least on thi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Glass at night
Looking Glass at night
Rock Climbing Photo: the namesake hole on the looking glass
the namesake hole on the looking glass
Rock Climbing Photo: I almost droped the extra rope we brought on the r...
I almost droped the extra rope we brought on the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pam Sederburg on the awesome rappel
Pam Sederburg on the awesome rappel
Rock Climbing Photo: you have to do the swing. leave the rope in after ...
you have to do the swing. leave the rope in after ...
Rock Climbing Photo: the 1st pitch
the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: low on the route
low on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking back from the descent.
Hiking back from the descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit reflection
Summit reflection
Rock Climbing Photo: Good anchors at final rap station.
BETA PHOTO: Good anchors at final rap station.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great photo on an easy climb
Great photo on an easy climb

Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2017
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2010
I found out about the rock from 2 other webpages and stole the great info they had:
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2010
Saw some pitons for climbing the obvious crack inside the amphitheater leading to the rap station - anyone know what that climb is?
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 20, 2011
easy climbing even with the run out. we had to take the ranch road because the other road had equipment stuck in it. turns out if you have a 4x4 thats the ticket. you can park at the start of the climb. also no worries about getting to the rap anchors. we just did an easy walk around to them. absolutely no need to rap or lower to them.
By Isaac Dority
Jan 16, 2012
Three friends and I climbed this on Janurary 8th which was a beautiful day, and made for pleasent "climbing" and an awesome rappel. This landform has probably the most thrilling rappel I have ever been on. However, the main purpose of my post is say that we built a cairn and added a modest summit register. It is at the very highest point of the rock(which requires more scrambling after the last pitch) in a bottle. We had a fun relaxing time on this as a rest day climb after a nerve racking, snowy epic on Castleton the previous day. Hope to see lots of entries the next time I'm up there.
By Brian C.
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 22, 2012
RATTLE SNAKE ALERT!

We showed up to climb this today and there were approx. 20 rattle snakes lining the small shelf around the base of the route. There was one (about 3 feet long) sitting right in a small hole right at the start of the route that would easily strike the hand or leg of anyone climbing the route. We tried to move it with a stick and it only made it angry so we packed back up and left. Be careful!
By gregmiller7
Nov 6, 2012
is it possible to access this with a high clearance 2 wheel drive vehicle? wasnt sure after reading about the "deep sand" Thanks!
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 7, 2012
Easy access even with a low-rider Civic. There's a good gravel road that gets you within 100 feet of the formation.
By gregmiller7
Nov 8, 2012
awesome thanks! looks like a sweet little outing
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 19, 2013
I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway.
By rr12
Jul 5, 2013
We were there last month. The RATTLE SNAKE warning above is no joke. There were a couple of adults right at the start of the climb and about 10 juveniles all over starting under the rocks where you jump over the fence.
By handyhansen
From: Vail, CO
Oct 3, 2013
Leave the rappel up and do a swing afterwards!
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2013
Wow, definitely RATTLE SNAKES live in holes at the base of the climb. Be careful! See comments and picture on the page for the climb.
By Steven Reneau
Nov 5, 2013
On 11/1/13 the first dirt road to the start of the "Regular Route" (aka "East Rib") was passable for high clearance 4x4, but not regular cars.

From the top, members of our party saw anchors and bolts on the south rib, the extension directly above the arch, and decided we should give it a try. 1st pitch was low 5th class up a crack system starting on the SE side of the south rib (no bolts), ending at a series of 6 bolted anchors, two with slings and a link for rapping, + one old ring piton, on a flat bench south of the arch. Rib steepened here, steeper and narrower than east rib, with crumbly rock, suspect pro, and long way to first bolt, so we bailed. Single rope rap with 60 m rope takes you to base of west side.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 10, 2014
The road into Looking Glass Rock is now called Looking Glass Road. The former name doesn't show up on Google Maps app.
By Adam DNR
Oct 5, 2015
Hey all,

After I left Moab a few years ago, Isaac Dority, Jarod Yazzie, Alex Pina and I put a small register on the summit of Looking Glass. A few months ago, I heard that it disappeared, which was a real bummer--there were entries in there by people who aren't with us anymore, which isn't something you can really replace. This past weekend, my partner Chris Thai and I added a new register on our way back from the Creek. It's right next to the summit cairn. There's a small notebook and a pen in there to start.

I assume some jack-off took the first one for no reason, but climbers, if I'm wrong and you or someone you know is unhappy about the register, please, call me at 7206758129, and we'll talk it out and see if we can come to a compromise. The old one saw a lot of use and was tastefully out of sight, so it would be a shame to see this one take a walk too.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit register notebook.
Summit register notebook.
By mikeehale
Apr 3, 2016
  • * RAPPEL INFO **
You can use a single 70 meter DYNAMIC rope. At first glance the rope will be dangling 3-4 feet off the bottom, however with rope stretch we had about six or more feet to go. A static 70 meter will not work - Neither will a dynamic 60 meter.

Hope this helps and happy rapping.

Oh, and beware of rattle snake - Saw two to the left of the first belay spot.

Cheers.
By Derek Michael
May 9, 2017
Attempted Looking Glass on May 3. Saw about seven rattle snakes at the base of the route. One was literally on first step of the route. There is a harder, crumbly, and sketchy unprotected alternative start to the right around the toe. There were also snakes on that side, though.

We opted to leave the snakes alone and headed back to Moab.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About