Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Looking Glass Rock

Select Area...
East Face/Guides Wall (Left side) 
East Face/Guides Wall (Right Side) 
Hidden Wall 
Looking Glass Boulders 
North Side 
Nose Area 
South Side 
Sun Wall 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Dalton Road
A forest road connecting Lake Road at two different points. Allows shorter access to other trails. Near Clemson, South Carolina
Hunting Arrow
A challenging Issaqueena favorite. Near Clemson, South Carolina
20 Miles of Northern Issaqueena
The faster side of Issaqueena, connecting a number of individual trails. Near Clemson, South Carolina
Tour of Issaqueena
This covers most of the popular trails in Issaqueena Near Clemson, South Carolina
The Bottom End
This ride includes all trails in the lower end of the trail system. Near Clemson, South Carolina
12 Mile Loop
A tight goatpath singletrack. Near Clemson, South Carolina
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Looking Glass Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.2948, -82.7882 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 212,964
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

42°
Tuesday

50° | 40°
Wednesday

53° | 36°
Thursday

45° | 17°
Friday

32° | 16°
Saturday

38° | 23°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Looking Glass from afar

Seasonal Falcon Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.

Getting There 

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

124 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',61],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',12],['5.9',19],['5.10',35],['5.11',26],['5.12',13],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Looking Glass Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Second Coming   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   South Side
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   Nose Area
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Nose Area
Gemini Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Side
Rat's Ass   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   South Side
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   Sun Wall
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Nose Area
Dinkus Dog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Side
The Seal   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   North Side
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   North Side
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   North Side
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   North Side
Cornflake Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   North Side
The Odyssey   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Sun Wall
The Legendary Nuclear Bomb   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 600'   Sun Wall
Safari Jive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   North Side
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   North Side
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   North Side
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   North Side
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   North Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Looking Glass Rock

Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Bombelay!

Bombelay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
This is a great granite slab route with multiple, interesting cruxes. The route links discontinuous features, so requires some good route finding skills if there is no chalk. Begin with liebacking up some flakes to the first bolt and the first crux; pulling over a short roof (harder for short folks...you can place a TCU up high in the corner to the left before you pull the roof). Next do some powerful liebacks up to the next bolt (crux 2), place a tcu or nut then use jugs to mantel ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...
A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...
Rock Climbing Photo: A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.
A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first pitch of Sundial Crack over a...
Looking up the first pitch of Sundial Crack over a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...
Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...
Rock Climbing Photo: There are some killer views of western NC from Loo...
There are some killer views of western NC from Loo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...
The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...
Rock Climbing Photo: rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...
rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Dep...
Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Dep...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.
A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste s...
CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"
Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch out for these guys...
Watch out for these guys...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the blue ridge parkway...
From the blue ridge parkway...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking Glass, John's Rock, and Cedar Rock from Ch...
BETA PHOTO: Looking Glass, John's Rock, and Cedar Rock from Ch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...
Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...
Rock Climbing Photo: J-Sexy belaying me on "Hawkeye" about (4...
J-Sexy belaying me on "Hawkeye" about (4...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thug life
Thug life
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice and green in the winter.  Pisgah has some rea...
Nice and green in the winter. Pisgah has some rea...
Rock Climbing Photo: The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)
BETA PHOTO: The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)
Rock Climbing Photo: I shot this photo while doing some flying in the A...
I shot this photo while doing some flying in the A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Your best friend at the Glass
Your best friend at the Glass
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.
Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.
Rock Climbing Photo: North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...
North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012
Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 1, 2016
By reddirt
Dec 13, 2006
so you're wondering, what the hell are ^^eyebrows^^ ??
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 18, 2006
That's a very handy link, reddirtgirl -- and from a LG pioneer, no less!
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.

I haven't found showers yet...
By UncleBen
From: Steele, AL
Oct 31, 2011
Shower's can be had for a nominal fee from Davidson River Campground if you are not staying there. If camping there, they're free, but I find the National Forest more appealing as well.
By Caleb Spradlin
From: Brevard, NC
Sep 9, 2013
So I was wondering if there are any routes that top out somewhere near the trail at the top?
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Sep 10, 2013
You can make your way to the Tourist Trail (Looking Glass Trail) by topping out most routes from the Nose area all the way over to the South Face. The Nose tops out near the terminus of the trail and others may take a little more wandering to find the trail. If you're planning on walking off...dont! The tourist trail takes you to a different parking area from the Nose or South Face and would end up being another 5 or so mile hike to get back to your car.
By Orlena Tilton
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
May 27, 2014
A few pieces of advice, from my recent experience at Looking Glass:

1st: There is wilderness camping at the area for South Side, near the parking lot. No need to pay $22 for a campsite, or to stay at a hotel if camping is full.

2nd: You should, at a minimum, have one 70m rope...2 is better if you are doing multi-pitch

3rd: This climbing area is MADE for tri-cams!!! =)

By Mike Reardon
Jun 14, 2015
For a detailed first hand account by Steve Longenecker of early ascents of the Nose, the Womb, and other great NC classics, take a look here:
grounduppublishing.com/?p=978
By TGMcFadden
Apr 1, 2016
I dont have any real ideas which areas are still open despite the falcon closures. I saw a lift posted on the CCC website but its from 2014, does anyone know if that lift gets posted every year or if the 2014 lift is effective through the present?
By Jonah hoff
Jun 6, 2016
I see most of the climbs listed as 'standard LG rack', but nowhere on this page do a see a detailed list of what that entails, am i missing it or is it something that is generally known by climbers in the area?
i'm from virginia, but ill be coming down to start school at brevard in the fall and would like to know which pieces i'll need.
thanks!
By BruceBurgessNC
Jun 7, 2016
Regarding the rack question, I pack a single set of BD stoppers (3-13), doubles on 00-2 Metolius cams (or equivalent/TCUs/BC C3s/aliens, etc), singles .3, .4, 3 & 4 C4/X4 Camalots, doubles C4/X4 .5 - 2, and tricams to #2. There are a few routes where it's nice to have double #3s and maybe a #5 cam like Odyssey or DumDeDemDem. Opinions may vary.

Edit: and for runners/draws, leave the sport draws at home. longer quick draws and alpine draws are the way to go.
By Jasoncollins
Aug 1, 2016
I lost a Casio Pathfinder Watch (green/black) at the base of the Nose tuesday the 26th july. Please message me if you happened upon it…as I have been late to work twice since I lost it. Thank you