Looking for some crag advice in or around yosemite valley

Hi all, visiting yosemite soon with the girlfriend. Im relatively new to trad and am comfortable leading in the 5.7 to 5.8 range but climb 5.10-5.11 sport confidently, i was wondering if anyone had some advice on some good single pitch climbing area's preferably with short/shorter approaches and bolted anchors for belay/rap (not as confident in my anchor building as my leading on trad yet) any help would be greatly appreciated

Swan slabs, maybe manure pile. There really isn't much within your skill set in Yosemite. Winter time climbing opens a few more options (too hot now).
You'll probably enjoy visiting somewhere else more, for climbing anyway.

Check out the Cookie Sheet as well.

supertopo.com/rock-climbing…

Tuolumne has bolt only routes and it won't be 100 degrees.
Still need nuts to lead some of them, though ;)

thanks for the advice everyone, the cookie sheet looks decent is it really run out though? also would like to check out tuolumne any suggestions? ...I have a full trad rack so im confident placing gear up to 5.8 just havent built too many of my own anchors for multi pitch, my crag has bolt anchors at the top of most routes.

swan slab seems premium for what i was looking for thanks for the suggestion

five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too.

craghead wrote:five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too.

craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors?

The first pitch of the enigma is pretty cool and overlooked. Just to the right of where the trail meets the wall at the cookie is this tall pitch of 5.8 triple cracks with a little bit of everything. Also check out Jam Crack 5.7 (which is not so overlooked), uncle (5.7) and aunt (5.8) fannies are worth checking too.

craghead wrote: pro is ABUNDANT. and its next to a waterfall, no you will not get wet

Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces....

Dude just take one day to practice anchors.

If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.

ha! if lead in Yosemite anybody can! Dude put your girlfriend on first pitch and let here set a station on a small ledge to the left in a dihedral before you hand traverse to right. You takes the second pitch. Rap off a tree. Make sure climb early morning , i mean EARLY.

Hand.jammin wrote:craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors?

as you see I had to traverse back to the corner cos i made a mistake and went to bolts

have her or you set the station just where i am now . You will see it clearly when you get there

alright cool thanks crag head, will a 60m rope get us back to the bottom on a rappel?? and yes as wild as it sounds i feel confident climbing above single pieces ( have taken falls confidently on to my gear) but have no belay anchor building experience or anyone to learn from, ive read john longs book in and out and know what to do just want to go with someone to check my work before i hang mine and her life on it, dont know if this makes any sense (could it be john long psyches you out so bad in his book Im just questioning my self? cuz i can lay bomber pieces and can rig a sliding x/equallete/cordellete just fine) Thanks for the help everyone much appreciated

One 60m WILL NOT get you down. The walk off isn't bad though. About half way, as you come to the wet slabs there is a "shortcut" rap that a 60m will get you back to trail level.

Also, you can belay off of trees or gear you choice. Pretty much belay from anywhere. 1st 2 pitches seem kinda weak. The prize awaits you at the last 40m of the climb where it makes it a classic.

Mr. Stone ^^ is right we had twins as you see in the pic. Borrow a second rope or bring a tagline to retrieve your single . You look for the bolted station for second rap. That will be a perfect first multipitch!
The station is just bolts so bring a leaver ...there are trees there too , may wanna bring a tat kit, just in case

you need to build gear anchors on munginella. don't underestimate the grades in Yosemite.

cookie sheet will be HOT.

buy a guide book and don't rely on internet pictures to guide you up a route.

right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone