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Looking For A Legacy 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 1,589
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: 10 Cambrian Grey 5.10c 12 Looking For A Legacy 5.9


The second pitch (or extension) to Cambrian Grey. The name came from the guys at MountainWorks. When we were discussing the possibility of the route, the guys mentioned something about it adding to the legacy of a historic route.

It always seemed strange that Cambrian Grey ended so suddenly in the middle of the slab. We peeked over the roof several times and thought, "wow, that looks like fun." The resulting route is a great addition to an already great route.

Look/feel for some small but positive crimps to get past the first overlap. Moderate slabs and small short challenges typify this line.

It is very possible to do the whole thing as one long pitch.

  • **I changed the rating given all the comments that it was underrated. There used to e a nice flake for your hand that made the initial roof pretty mello. But it may be gone now. Once there is a consensus, we can officially get the rating right.


Second pitch of Cambrian Grey right side of the wall. Two single rope raps or one double.


NINE bolts and chains

Photos of Looking For A Legacy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian Burrell on the FA in early August 2005.
BETA PHOTO: Christian Burrell on the FA in early August 2005.

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By Eli Harry
Oct 19, 2011

I tried but could not get over the first ledge! maybe I was tired from climbing Cambrian Grey but this is not a 5.9 move. At least not the move I was trying to make!
By Tim Moore
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great addition to the route especially with both overhangs. To get over both is not a .9 move. A 10b/c maybe. It gets easy after the second bolt probably down to a .7 to the chains. A 70 meter rope will not get you from the ground and back but it will get you back to the chains at the top of the first pitch. A little dirty as well needs some traffic to clean it up. Definitely worth it though especially with both overhangs. Very well bolted. The first over hang must have lost a hold because the rock looks newly broken and makes the move much more difficult. The second overhang is large and requires a hefty pull move but the holds are their. A worthy addition to the bottom crimpy route
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Oct 16, 2014

There at least used to be a nice flake for your right hand that made getting you foot high pretty easy. Very possible this flake broke off by now.
By Owen Witesman
From: Springville, UT
Sep 8, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The initial small roof is by far the hardest move on these two pitches. I could see a couple of spots where there might once have been a key hold that has broken. If the rest is .10c, that's .10d or harder. Beyond that move it stays interesting for a couple of moves and then gets easy. The larger roof is just pure fun.
By Alex Temus
From: Small Town, USA
May 2, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Unless you feel like using the friction of a featureless face (seriously, nothing there for about 5 vertical feet, not even small crimps) to get over the initial, small roof, you need to go right about 6-8 feet from the belay to start the route.

The two roofs on this route are fantastic! Loved them both, I don't think they are 5.9 in difficulty, not even close. This route felt more difficult than Cambrian Grey (which. I felt, was closer to a 10a or b) and I enjoyed it more as well! Awesome route!
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 3, 2017

Hey guys, so I am wondering about the line now with all the comments about the rating. Can we get a consensus? Also, how well do you feel it is bolted for the difficulty now? Do we need to get anything changed out? New bolts? Move bolts? replace the chains?
By Alex Temus
From: Small Town, USA
May 4, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I would recommend removing the first bolt and replacing it with one, maybe two bolts. The first would be a little lower and slightly further right than the original first bolt - meant for a traverse. Then the second would be 5 or 6 feet to the right and roughly the same height as the current first bolt.

A minor edit: because P1 is a different, unique route, shouldn't this be considered a one pitch route?

Thanks for putting up the route and following up on its changing condition!

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