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Look Reach Pull 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Tupper
New Route: Yes
Season: warm
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013

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Description 

High first and second bolt but only 4th class climbing to reach them.

Traverse right at second bolt to wide crack then eventually back onto face to below roof. At crux bulge, reach far left under roof to a good hold and some powerful movement up to bolted crack section. 15-foot runout at top on 5.7 ground to reach anchors.

  • * At the crux-reach-left, dont clip the bolt in the roof bulge (that is for the direct variation "Legends...") unless you have a long sling. It will be tempting but will shut you down if you only use a quickdraw on it. If you do, you might as well finish on "Legends...". Most people will, I suspect.

  • ***Shorter-reach people will have trouble with the long crux move left but can use an even more powerful gaston intermediate to help with the reach. Im 6' tall with a slight negative AI and had to use the gaston move.


Location 

First route you come to, north end of Shack.

Protection 

11 bolts to anchor


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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 15, 2013

Jean De Lataillade pulled off a large block on one of the early ascents of this route from the upper easy section just below the anchor. Took a 30'+ whipper! The block had been overlooked by the FA party and a couple ascents thereafter. It was just sitting there waiting for the unsuspecting micro-tug.

Be careful! When in doubt, at any crag, use a GriGri(or SUM) and a helmet and belay close to the wall.